Herb Drying Basics

Of all the various types of foods and ways to preserve them — freezing or canning

fruits and vegetables, pickling, curing meat, making cheese and yogurt — dehydrating

herbs is the easiest place to jump in. Most herbs contain so little moisture that your

job is done soon after you’ve bought or harvested them.

Drying herbs is an economically savvy food preservation strategy, too, because fresh

and dried herbs and teas demand high prices at the grocery store.

Your own dried herbs will taste better than store-bought because they’ll be newer and

thus more pungent. If you grow your own herbs, you can also choose the tastiest

varieties.

Herb Drying Basics

When herbs are dried, they are safe from bacteria, mold and yeast, and will remain

potent for at least six to 12 months. To remove moisture, all you need is air

circulation. Some warmth can also help. The six methods detailed here fit the bill.

Washing herbs usually isn’t necessary if they are grown organically. Harvest herbs in

mid-morning before newly developed essential oils have been burned off by the sun, but

after the dew has dried. Remove old, dead, diseased or wilted leaves.

When you harvest herbs for their seeds, the seed heads should be turning brown and

hardening, but not yet ready to shatter. To harvest herbs for their flowers — such as

chamomile flowers or thyme spikes — snip flower buds off the plants close to the first

day the buds open.

Indoor Air Drying Herbs. Tie stems in bundles and hang the herbs upside down. Use

twist-ties so you can easily tighten the bundles when stems shrink as they dry. A

warm, dry spot is best; avoid the kitchen. Wrap muslin, a mesh produce bag or a paper

bag with several holes around the bundle, and tie it at the neck. Carol Costenbader,

author of The Big Book of Preserving the Harvest, suggests making a gift this way by

using a decorative hole punch and pretty ribbon.

A drying screen helps dry leaves or sprigs. Make your own from an old window screen or

hardware cloth mesh stapled to scrap wood or a picture frame. Lay cheesecloth over the

screen, and place herbs on the cloth. Herbs can take a few hours to several days to

dry fully.

Solar Drying Herbs. This method is easy if you live in a warm, dry place. The ideal

solar food-drying conditions are 100 degrees Fahrenheit and 60 percent humidity or

less.

Use the sun’s heat to dry herbs, but don’t expose herbs to too much direct sunlight as

this could cause them to bleach. Solar drying can be as low-tech as placing drying

screens outside until your herbs are brittle (bring them in at night). You can also

dry herbs under the windshield or rear window of your car on a hot day. A DIY solar

food dryer with stackable drying screens, a glass top to trap radiation, an absorber

plate to transmit heat and a vent for air circulation is useful, too. Find our

building plans in Build a Solar Food Dehydrator.

Dehydrating Herbs With a Machine. Any tool that reliably turns out a good product and saves you time and money is worth its cost. Food dehydrators range in price from $30 to $400, with between $100 to $200 being the best choice for most of us. Quality dehydrators have handy features such as timers and adjustable temperature control. If you keep the unit stored in a convenient spot, you’ll use it more often and recoup its cost in a season or two of grocery savings.

Dehydrators have a temperature control mechanism — ideally one you can adjust — and a fan to circulate air. Round models with multiple stacking trays are the most energy-efficient. Box-type models that allow you to remove some of the trays can be handy for drying large items and can serve other purposes, such as proofing bread dough or culturing yogurt. Follow your machine’s instructions.

Oven Drying Herbs. Drying herbs in an oven sounds easy because most of us have one and know how to use it. But this is actually the most labor-intensive, and the least energy-efficient method. Herbs need to be dried at about 100 degrees, but most ovens don’t go that low. They also need air circulation, and some ovens don’t have vents. You’ll need to get an oven thermometer and experiment. Try turning the oven on warm or its lowest setting for a while, then turning it off (while leaving the light on). You can also try propping the door open slightly with a wooden spoon.

Check how long it takes for the temperature to drop to 100 degrees and how long it stays at that temperature.

Herbs are far easier than fruits and vegetables to oven-dry because they dry more quickly and are more forgiving. If you plan to learn how to use your oven for food dehydration, definitely start with herbs. Layer them on cheesecloth over a wire cooling rack to allow for air circulation all around, and place the rack in the middle of the oven when the temperature is about 100 degrees.

Microwave Drying Herbs. The microwave can successfully dry herbs, but note that food-drying experts do not recommend it for drying foods that have more moisture. It’s not as easy as air drying or using an electric dehydrator.

To dry herbs in a microwave, strip leaves off of the stems and place the leaves between layers of paper towels. Begin on high power for 1 minute, allow a 30-second rest, and then alternate between 30 seconds on high power and 30 seconds of rest. Most herbs should dry fully in 10 minutes or less.

Refrigerator Drying Herbs. Another super-simple method of drying herbs basically amounts to neglect. Simply stick them in the fridge and forget about them for a few days. This handy tip was discovered by the late herb authority Madalene Hill and her daughter, Gwen Barclay, who contributed to MOTHER EARTH NEWS 20 years ago.

By accident, they discovered that herbs left alone (out of packaging) in a cold, dry refrigerator dried beautifully crisp and also retained their color, flavor and fragrance.

They even liked this method for parsley and chives, which don’t have the best reputation for keeping great flavor in dried form. The challenge is finding enough room to let herbs sit uncovered for a few days.

If your fridge has available space, by all means, give it a try. To read Hill and Barclay’s original article, go to Dry Your Herbs in the Fridge.

Storing Home-Dried Herbs

Your herbs have finished drying when you can crumble them easily, but don’t crumble them all! Whole leaves and seeds retain oils better in storage than crumbled herbs. Still, having some pre-mixed spice blends — such as those for Italian, Mexican or barbecue dishes — can be a big timesaver. Use a mortar and pestle to grind the ingredients. Tea blends are also useful, such as a combination of peppermint and fennel to calm an upset stomach. Store dried herbs in airtight jars out of direct light and away from high heat.

Always label jars immediately with the date and contents. If you grew a particular variety, be sure to include its name so you can pinpoint your favorites over time. Check new jars for droplets of moisture or mold. Throw out anything moldy, and redry anything that created moisture in the jar.

When using dried herbs in recipes that call for fresh, keep in mind that oils in dried herbs are more concentrated. Use about half the amount of dried herbs in a recipe calling for fresh herbs, and about a quarter as much if the dried herb has been finely ground. To use herbs in teas, pour boiling water over a teaspoon to a tablespoon of the dried herb, or more to taste, and steep for 5 to 10 minutes.

— Get more drying tips in Food Drying With an Attitude by Mary T. Bell.

Choosing Herbs for Drying

The following herbs are good candidates for drying. Some herbs, although they can be dried, retain their flavor better if frozen. These include basil, borage, chives, cilantro, lemongrass, mint, parsley.

Leaves: bay, celery, chervil, dill, geranium, lemon balm, lemon verbena, lovage, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, sage, summer savory, tarragon, thyme

Seeds: anise, caraway, celery, chervil, coriander, cumin, dill, fennel, mustard

Flowers: bee balm, chamomile, chive, dill, geranium, lavender, linden, marigold, nasturtium, rose, thyme, yarrow

****

Snip chives near the base of the leaves.

Pick the outer leaves of parsley.

Cut stems of oregano, mints, lemon balm, and basil just above a pair of leaves; this promotes branching of the remaining stem.

Cut sprigs of thyme and rosemary and tender tips of sage.

Hang or screen dry thyme

Discard any discolored or tough leaves.  Dry the nice-looking ones on the stalk or on trays, whichever is most convenient.  Remember to harvest herbs for drying on a sunny morning after the dew has evaporated

 Gathering my herbs is one of my favorite things to do. It brings me into

contact with these remarkable plants. It is also a practical undertaking,

and I carefully prepare and organize for it!!

I don't cut the herbs at random. I pinch out or prune the plant at the same

time as I harvest, which removes unwanted shoots and encourages bushiness.

Each herb has a 'best time' in which to harvest it. I will try and remember

to add the best time to harvest with each herb profile.

You should a dry, overcast morning, after any dew or rain has dried.

I use ordinary garden tools, including a sharp knife, scissors, or

pruners...and I wear those plastic 'surgical' gloves because some herbs can

trigger allergic reactions....and rue...may cause blistering if the sap

contacts skin in the sunlight.

I collect small quantities at a time and process them quickly to protect the

active constituents from deterioration.

Always try to harvest material from only clean, healthy plants....avoid any

damaged or diseased parts, and any that are immature or old. Collect only

one kind of herb at a time to avoid transfers of odors and mistakes in

identification. Lay the herbs you have cut in a single layer in your

container.

Make sure that all parts harvested are clean and free of dirt and

insects...but avoid washing, since this lengthens the time of air-drying and

encourages deterioration. Do not harvest any herbs you have used chemicals

on.

Air-drying herbs is the most widely used method of preservation. You can

hang herbs or lay them out on a screen. My husband made me drying racks out

of window screen, but most of the time I rubber-band small bunches and hang

them. Use a rubber-band as it will shrink with the herbs as they dry!

Speed is important in air-drying...they should be dry in 24-48 hours. If

the leaves turn black or show any mold...the drying process has been too

slow and you should throw those herbs away.

The ideal place is dry and well ventilated...and at temps. of 60-90 degrees.

Fragile seedheads of herbs such as fennel, dill, and caraway should be hung

over clean paper or ...inside a paper bag(which I do) to catch the seeds as

they fall. Onions and garlic are traditionally harvested with the stalks

attached, which are then braided into ropes and sun-dried!

Large leaves, flowers, fruits, or petals can be arranged in a single layer

on racks.

Air movement is also important...I use a fan or put our dehumidifier in the

same room! .

Microwave-Drying; If the herbs need to be washed before drying the

microwave is the perfect way to dry them. The cut parts should be spread

out in a single layer and dried according to the temperature guidelines. On

average, this should take only about 2-3 minutes, but you need to check the

progress every 30 seconds, and rearrange the parts to ensure even drying.

Be sure to cool the herbs before storing.

Oven-Drying: Some people dry leaves and flowers in the oven, however...I

recommend you do this only for cut underground plant parts that need lengthy

drying and will tolerate higher temps than the leaves and flowers do.

Freeze-Drying; This produces excellent retention of flavor in soft- leaved

herbs like parsley, ming, basil and chives. Pack the individual leaves

either whole or in sprigs into freezer bags and label!!! Three is no need

to defrost before you use them since the leaves will crumble easily when

still frozen. (chopped herbs can be thawed quickly in a sieve before use.

Herbs can also be added when making ice cubes....put the chopped herbs, or

herb flowers in ice-cube trays and add about one tablespoon of water to each

tablespoon of herb.

Containers of preserved herbs should be stored in a cool, dry place out of

direct sunlight. Dark glass or ceramic jars and bottles are best for dried

herbs. Lids should be airtight to prevent any moisture from getting in. If

you have only clear glass, the container should be kept in a dark cupboard.

Plastic containers may contaminate herbs and increase humidity. Food-grade

plastic bags and plastic boxes or tubs, rather than glass, are recommended

for frozen herbs.

Storing Dried herbs; when the herbs are very dry...pack them into

containers and label with name and date! With aromatic herbs...keep the

pieces as large as possible...do not crush!!

At this point you can create blends for bouquets garnis, special recipes,

potpourris,, and teas.

All dried herbs have a tendency to absorb moisture from the air, so when you

store them use containers that are only just big enough so that as much air

as possible is excluded. Check your herbs regularly just in case there

has been any deterioration in quality.

Drying herbs is an ideal way of preserving their shape, color and scent.

Trellis-work makes an excellent drying rack because it allows the air to

circulate around the plants. Here is how to make a rustic-style trellis

rack that will provide an attractive display while the herbs are drying.

Material;

12 straight branches or stems, 5 feet long, and at least a couple inches in

diameter. Suitable branches or stems to use are hazel, chestnut, or

hornbeam(although I have used the branches off lilacs, ash and other trees)

Nails, 1/2 inches long

Small twigs or dried vine(I use the woodbine vines)

3 large galvanized nails

Soft string or raffia

Brown paper

Salable jars or tins

Hers suitable for drying

Lay down six of the branches and position the remaining six across them,

spacing evenly. Nail together at the intersections to form a squared

pattern. For a more rustic effect weave in some honeysuckle, wisteria,

clematis or other dried vines.

Choose a suitable place for hanging the rack, preferably a dark room that

receives no direct sunlight. Attach the three galvanized nails to the wall

so the rack can be hung over them.

Harvest the herbs after the dew has dried but before the sun gets hot, as

this evaporates the essential oils. Pick flowering herbs just as the heads

start to open. (full blown flowers do not retain their colors or perfume as

well) After removing any damaged leaves, gather small bundles of each herb.

Fasten them together with a rubber band (you can tie raffia on top of the

rubber band for a more decorative look, but you must use a rubber band or

you will have stems of herbs all over the floor), and make sure you leave a

2 1/2 inch loose end for tying the bundles to the rack.

**See below for a list of herbs **

Hang herbs such as lavender, sage, and bay upside down and arrange evenly on

the trellis rack so that they get plenty of air. Tie in place and hang the

rack on the galvanized nails. I wrap brown paper around mine to protect from

dust.

When the leaves are crisp and dry, strip them from their stalks and store in

airtight containers. Use the loose leaves of some to make bowls of

potpourri or aromatic linen bags and tea!!!

In the 16th and 17th centuries bunches of herbs, such as southernwood and

wormwood, were strewn across the floor or placed in drawers an cupboards to

keep away moths.

Hang some of the dried her bouquets from the ceiling to freshen the air, and

you can make hop wreaths as an attractive room decoration.

Herbs Suitable for Drying in Bunches'

French lavender, English lavender, White lavender, Common thyme, Wild thyme,

Lemon thyme, Sweet woodruff, Hops, Southernwood, Wormwood, Roman wormwood,

Rosemary, Lemon verbena, Sage, Marjoram, Bay, Hyssop, Savory, Linage, Mint,

Lemon balm, Nutmeg.

 Drying Herbs

An easy way to preserve fresh herbs is the time honored method of drying

them. Start by washing the herbs. Do this in the garden with a light

spray of water before you cut them. Let them dry and then cut the stalks

and bring them inside.

Remove each individual leaf from the stem. Be careful not to bruise the

leaves which can turn some herb leaves black. Save the stems for burning

in the fireplace this winter. They smell great.

Place the leaves in a shallow wicker basket with a weave that allows air

to flow through. For herbs with tiny leaves, such as rosemary or

oregano, use cheesecloth stretched over a frame.

This process usually takes three to four days inside. Once a day, shake

and redistribute the leaves so they dry more evenly. If they are drying

too quickly, cover with newspaper.

Once they are completely dry, crumble the leaves and put them into

labeled, air tight containers.

http://www.pallensmith.com/features/highlights/h2306c.htm

********

Drying Herbs

If you have an herb garden, you'll find that home-dried herbs can be

just as tasty as those bought at the store. However, proper handling is

as important to the success of your herb harvest as good cultural practices.

Preparation

Most herbs are at their peak flavor just before flowering, so this is a

good time to collect them for drying and storage. To be certain, check

drying directions on specific herbs in a reliable reference book. Cut

off the herbs early in the morning just after the dew has dried. Cut

annuals off at ground level, and perennials about one-third down the

main stem, including the side branches.

Wash herbs, with the leaves on the stems, lightly in cold running water

to remove any soil, dust, bugs, or other foreign material. Drain

thoroughly on absorbent towels or hang plants upside down in the sun

until the water evaporates.

Strip leaves off the stalks once plants have drained and dried, leaving

only the top 6 inches. Remove all blossoms.

Natural or Air Drying

Herbs must be dried thoroughly before storing. Herbs with high moisture

content, such as mint and basil, need rapid drying or they will mold. To

retain some green leaf coloring, dry in the dark by hanging plants

upside down in bunches in paper bags. Hanging leaves down allows

essential oils to flow from stems to leaves. Tie whole stems very

tightly in small bunches. Individual stems will shrink and fall. Hang in

a dark, warm (70o-80oF [21.1o-26.7oC]), well-ventilated, dust-free area.

Leaves are ready when they feel dry and crumbly in about 1 to 2 weeks.

Drying Seeds

Seeds take longer to dry than leaves, sometimes as much as 2 weeks for

larger seeds. Place seed heads on cloth or paper. When partially dry,

rub seeds gently between palms to remove dirt and hulls. Spread clean

seed in thin layers on cloth or paper until thoroughly dry.

You also can dry herb seeds by hanging the whole plant upside down

inside a paper bag. The bag will catch the seeds as they dry and fall

from the pod.

Oven Drying

For quick oven drying, take care to prevent loss of flavor, oils, and

color. Place leaves or seeds on a cookie sheet or shallow pan not more

than 1 inch deep in an open oven at low heat less than 180oF (82.2oC)

for about 2 to 4 hours.

Microwave ovens can be used to dry leaves quickly. Place the clean

leaves on a paper plate or paper towel. Place the herbs in the oven for

1 to 3 minutes, mixing every 30 seconds.

Silica Gel or Salt Drying

Silica gel or noniodized table salt can be used to dry or "cure"

non-hairy leaves. Clean and blot dry leaves before placing them in a

tray or shallow pan of the silica gel or salt. After the leaves have

dried, approximately 2 to 4 weeks, remove the leaves from the drying

material, shake off the excess material, and store them in glass

containers. Before using, rinse leaves thoroughly in clear, cold water.

Another method of drying herbs is to remove the leaves from the plants,

wash them, and spread them thinly on screens to dry, avoiding exposure

to bright light. Cheesecloth makes a good screen material and stretches well.

Freezing Herbs

Herbs also can be frozen. Harvest herbs according to recommendations.

Wash them thoroughly and blanch them in boiling, unsalted water for 50

seconds Cool them quickly in ice water and then package and freeze them.

Washed fresh dill, chives, and basil can be frozen without blanching.

Storage

When completely dry, the leaves may be screened to a powder or stored

whole in airtight containers, such as canning jars with tightly sealed lids.

Seeds should be stored whole and ground as needed. Leaves retain their

oil and flavor if stored whole and crushed just before use.

For a few days, it is very important to examine daily the jars in which

you have stored dried herbs. If you see any moisture in the jars, remove

the herbs and repeat the drying process. Herbs will mold quickly in

closed jars if not completely dry.

Once you are sure the herbs are completely dry, place them in the

airtight containers, and store them in a cool, dry place away from

light. Never use paper or cardboard containers for storage as they will

absorb the herbs' aromatic oils.

http://www.wvu.edu/~agexten/hortcult/herbs/ne208hrb.htm

*****

Method of Collection:

Early June is the best time to harvest dandelion greens. I dig the whole

plant from the garden with a shovel; it is easiest if the soil is soft

from recent rain. Knocking the extra dirt from the roots, or picking

away clods of dirt with fingers is easy enough, but if you want to use

the greens and edible buds they are rather difficult to clean. Try to be

careful not to get dirt on them. A strategy I discovered to minimize the

spreading of dirt onto greens and buds was to collect small quantities

at one time, process them, and then go back to dig for more. In a huge

pile of uncleaned plants the dirt would inevitably be shaken from the

roots onto the leaves.

The final cleaning of the roots works best with a dry brush, about 9

inches long, with big bristles. You do not want to use water, because

wetting the roots would slow down the drying. Hitting the root with the

tips of the stiff bristles is a good way to get it just as clean, and

also removes the slender rootlets that protrude from the taproot. Slice

the roots into 1/2-inch (1 centimeter) pieces. I have found it much

easier to dry the dandelion roots if they are chopped; if I do not chop

them into chunks when they are fresh it is almost impossible to do it

later when they are hard and dry. The chopped roots dry in three days if

they are spread out on a net, screen or drying rack.

Sun-drying does not damage roots as much as it damages leaves or stems.

A warm, dark, well-ventilated place in a house or shed is all right. The

warming oven of a woodstove is not too hot; in fact, slight roasting

improves the sweet taste of dandelion roots. Some herb collectors are

now using microwave ovens to dry their harvest.

The number of species is large, with many groups that are only

recognized by specialists, but the one called Taraxacum officinale is

the most widespread. Originally from Europe, it was introduced into

South Africa, South America, North Zealand, Australia, India, and all of

North America except the tundra barrens, although another species grows

in the high Arctic tundra. Like most introduced weeds it is common in

waste places, roadsides, and gardens.

http://www.ankn.uaf.edu/viereck/viereckdandelion.html

*****

Roots can be dried, then roasted and ground to make a coffee substitute.

Fresh leaves can be eaten in salads or as a green vegetable, often

blanched to remove the bitterness. Dandelion leaves are a rich source of

vitamins and minerals and are particularly high in vitamins A and C.

Dried leaves may be used in digestive or diet drinks and herb beers.

Wine and a syrup can be made from the flowers.

Dandelion is approved as a GRAS (generally recognised as safe) food

ingredient in the United Statesof America. Extracts are used as flavour

components in various food products, including alcoholic (eg bitters)

and nonalcoholic beverages, frozen dairy desserts, candy, baked goods,

gelatins, puddings and cheese.

Medicinally, dandelion root has been used as a tonic, blood purifier and

for relief of rheumatic disorders for hundreds of years, particularly in

Europe and China. The dried or fresh root extract is used as a general

tonic or as a diuretic, laxative and to treat various liver and spleen

ailments. The leaf is reputed to be similar in medicinal action to the

root but weaker.

Due to its high content of inulin (~40%), juice of the root can serve as

a source of a special high fructose syrup.

...snip...

There is debate about what is the optimum time to harvest dandelion

root. Some believe the roots to be more bitter when harvested in autumn

but others consider the roots to be more bitter in spring. Chemical

components of the root vary depending on the seasons. In autumn the

inulin content of dried root is up to 40% and in spring it is only 2%.

(NOTE FROM ELSEWHERE: Chemical Constituents:  Contains Taraxacin, a

crystalline, bitter substance, of which the yield varies in roots

collected at different seasons, and Taraxacerin, an acrid resin, with

Inulin (a sort of sugar which replaces starch in many of the Dandelion

family, Compositae), gluten, gum and potash. The root contains no

starch, but early in the year contains much uncrystallizable sugar and

laevulin, which differs from Inulin in being soluble in cold water. This

diminishes in quantity during the summer and becomes Inulin in the

autumn. The root may contain as much as 24 per cent. In the fresh root,

the Inulin is present in the cell-sap, but in the dry root it occurs as

an amorphous, transparent solid, which is only slightly soluble in cold

water, but soluble in hot water.) Taraxacin = Spring / Inulin = Fall ????

The British Herbal Pharmacopoeia (BHP) and other sources recommend

harvesting the roots in autumn. When collected in spring, food reserves

from the root have been used up for the production of leaves and flowers

and the root may have a shrivelled and porous appearance when dried. If

growing roots specifically for dandelion coffee, it is recommended that

you harvest in autumn, although you may be able to extend the harvesting

season through winter. Bitterness is a natural characteristic of

dandelion.

Plants are lifted using a carrot digger or similar machine that can work

to a depth of 25-30 cm. Excess soil should be shaken off the roots but

care should be taken not to damage the roots. The foliage needs to be

removed and then the roots washed thoroughly.

For leaf production, harvesting leaves in late spring is recommended.

One reference suggests that young leaves should be picked before the

flower stems appear as they are then less acid. The full-grown leaves

are considered to be too bitter for salads. A medicinal tincture is

sometimes made from the entire plant gathered in the early summer.

In France, dandelion is grown commercially as an autumn salad herb from

seed sown in spring. It is grown as an annual to prevent bitterness

developing in the plant.

In Northern France, dandelion is planted in spring to develop large

healthy roots. The roots are lifted in autumn and replanted indoors.

During winter the roots are 'forced', to produce mild-tasting shoots

similar to endives. When grown in the dark, the shoots loose their green

chlorophyll becoming white or blanched.

The roots should be dried whole if possible, but large roots may be cut

transversely into pieces 8-15 cm in length or longitudinally. For some

products such as roasted dandelion, roots may be sliced into small

pieces (about 1.5 cm) before drying.

....snip....

As a general rule, roots should be dried at 35-40°C until hard and

brittle, however temperatures of 50°C have been used. Thick roots need

to be checked carefully to see that the outside has not dried and sealed

leaving the inside still moist.

Store roots in paper bags or non-plastic containers in a dry

environment. It is important to keep the area free of moths as their

larvae eat the dried root.

http://www.crop.cri.nz/psp/broadshe/dandel.htm  (great site!! Info about

commercial growing, etc...)

*****

What do I dry you ask? Here's a short list.  Dried herbs are often

better for making infused oils as you don't get the moisture with dried

herb that you do using fresh herbs that causes problems in the infusion

or what ever formula you are using the herb in.  Even when using fresh

herb you should let it dry and wilt a little, to cut down on the amount

of moisture content in your oil which causes bacterial/mould growths.  I

use herbs for medicinal and culinary use.

Michael Moore's site is very good for Herb research

http://chili.rt66.com/hrbmoore/HOMEPAGE/NameIndex.html

as is Henriette's Herbal Homepage

http://metalab.unc.edu/herbmed/

*****************************************************************************

I like to dry my own herbs that I have grown, First I cut my herbs and brought them in and wash them off in running water, then I drain them on a towel

then after I left them out to drip dry awhile

I got out the dehydrator and set it up

filled the layers with the fresh herbs spreading them out as much as I could

I did two layers of basil and 2 layers of mint

First I set the dehydrator at the herb setting which says 95 and I left it for 4 hours

but when I opened it, they were still moist and a little soft

so I turned it up to 130

and gave them another 3 hours and when I opened it up they were nice and crunchy

ready to pull off the stems and place in my spice jars

you can grind it in a coffee grinder or use a mortar and pestle and pound them yourself

you can leave them into very small pieces or grind into powder depending on what you like.

I leave mine in tiny pieces this go round.

I have more herbs to dry soon.

Happy Herb Collecting