Growing Herbs
Well they are planted and Growing and I'm a happy Woman
I love herbs, growing them, smelling them, cooking with them, drying them and making things with them.
So I've loaded up on all the one's that I love and could find locally this year, plus one of my wonderful son in laws, got me 6 so he made Points once again, he does that well..;)
They are so pretty, don't you agree? Yes So fresh and oh you should smell them
When growing herbs you need to remember....water fresh water almost daily, unless it rains, then save your water for a day or until it stops raining. Make sure they have good drainage and get a good amount of sun.
Touch them, look for any pests, the good thing is most herbs don't get too many pests, in fact they even repel some pests.
Here are tips on growing herbs
Grow Fragrant, Flavorful and Healing Plants
Where would humans be without herbs? Considering how many centuries we have used plants for their culinary or healing properties, our world would certainly be a poorer place without them. Gardeners would be especially destitute: no longer would we enjoy the clean, heady fragrances of mint or lavender, the intense flavors of basil or rosemary, or the healing balm of comfrey or calendula. Herbs are beautiful plants, and their easy care and deep historical significance only adds to their lasting charm.
Fortunately, herbs are here to stay, and they remain as popular today as ever — perhaps even more so. Cooks love the unique flavors that herbs — fresh or dried — lend to all kinds of food and drink. Herbal crafters preserve the beauty and fragrance of flowers and leaves in potpourri, wreaths, sachets and dried arrangements. And gardeners value herbs for all their excellent qualities, including their vigor, low maintenance, and resistance to pests.
What Is an Herb?
When most of us think of herbs, we picture the common kitchen seasonings — basil, rosemary, sage, thyme, and so on. Yet in the broadest sense of the word, an herb is any plant that is considered “useful” in some respect to humans. The leaves, roots, seeds, stems or flowers of an herb might be important as a source of flavoring, medicine, fragrance, dye or some other product. And just as we might consider any aggressive plant a “weed” when it is growing someplace where we don’t want it, so an “herb” is any type of plant — annual, perennial, tree, shrub or vine — that has some practical value beyond looking beautiful in the garden.
Not that good looks don’t count. In fact, gardeners regularly grow many useful herbs not so much for their culinary or medicinal properties, but simply because they work so well in the landscape. Unless you are a devoted herbalist, you probably don’t use dried peony roots as a remedy for cold sores, or pick the leaves of betony (Stachys spp.) to use as a natural bandage (its other common name is woundwort).
Instead, we grow these “herbs” because we like having them in the garden as ornamentals. Yet exploring the useful properties of many of our favorite plants, though little appreciated in this modern consumer age, can add a whole new dimension to gardening and inspire a lifelong fascination with herbs.
Site and Soil Considerations
Most herbs grow best in a well-drained, moderately rich garden soil. However, some of the most popular herbs, such as rosemary, lavender, bay and winter savory, are woody plants native to the Mediterranean region. These herbs prefer a gritty, sharply drained soil. Good drainage is extremely important because standing water around the root crown of plants can cause them to rot. To keep these plants happy in garden soil that is particularly heavy or clayey, you will need to improve drainage either by adding lots of organic matter like compost, or by growing herbs in raised beds or containers.
Another crucial factor to consider is the amount of sunlight a plant needs to “see” every day. Most common herbs thrive in full sun conditions (six or more hours of direct sunlight per day). Don’t despair, though, if you have a garden site that receives only partial sun (two to six hours per day). Many herbs will thrive with less sunlight; you just need to select the right types based on the amount of light they can expect to get in your garden.
Many herbs require full sun and warmth to grow well and to develop the essential oils that give them their pungent aroma and flavor. Raised beds are a good way to provide not only better drainage, but warmer soil, especially early in the season. Using stone or brick as edging for raised beds helps to reflect and retain heat in and around the herb garden.
Paving also works well to create a warmer microclimate for heat-loving herbs that are often grown in pots or planters, such as rosemary or bay, and for low-growing ground covers such as creeping thyme.
Like other plants, herbs can become stressed on an especially windy or exposed site. Growing herbs in beds near the house or next to other buildings or walls provides the plants with a warm, sheltering microclimate and increases a gardener’s chances of success with tender perennials like rosemary, which is hardy only to Zone 8. Even if, like most American gardeners, you grow rosemary in containers and bring it indoors for the winter, it’s still a good idea to set it out in a sunny, sheltered area, one that duplicates as closely as possible its native growing conditions.
Pest and Disease Control
Some herbs are easy to start from seed, whereas others take a long time to germinate and grow and usually are either purchased as plants from a nursery or propagated vegetatively from existing plants (by stem cuttings, layering or root division).
Popular herbs that are easy to grow from seed include basil, borage, calendula, chervil, coriander, dill, lemon balm, parsley and sage. Before sowing any herb, whether in flats or directly in the garden, check its specific germination requirements to see how early you’ll need to start it and whether it requires any special handling (a period of cold dormancy, or stratification; light or darkness for germination; soil temperature; etc.).
Like other plants, most herb seeds should be planted at a depth of only about twice their thickness: with very small seeds, this means sowing on top of moistened soil in flats and gently pressing them in.
If you want to start new herbs from plants that you already have growing in your garden, there are several ways to do it, all of them variations of vegetative propagation.
Root Division
For many hardy perennial herbs, root division is the simplest means of propagation. Using a garden fork, dig up the plant’s root system and either pull the roots apart by hand (as with chives), or cut the root mass into several pieces and replant them elsewhere in the garden.
The best time to divide plants is in the fall, when they are winding down for the year. If divided and replanted at this time, new plants will establish themselves and get off to a good start the following spring. Placing transplants on a small mound of soil or compost in the bottom of the planting hole helps to prevent settling. Firm down the soil around the plants and water them well after planting to eliminate any large air pockets around the roots. Laying a thick organic mulch around plants in the late fall will help insure against crown heaving, which may otherwise occur as a result of freeze/thaw cycles over the winter.
Herbs that respond well to root division include bee balm, chives, garlic chives, horehound, lovage, marjoram, oregano, pennyroyal, sorrel, tansy, thyme, and sweet woodruff.
Cuttings
Stem cuttings of various herbs (hyssop, lavender, mints, oregano, sage, thyme) should be taken during the spring or summer, when plants are healthy and growing vigorously. Rosemary and tarragon tend to root better in the fall, so use them for cuttings at that time and grow them indoors over the winter.
1. Select stem segments that are tender (not woody) and about three to six inches long, with at least five leaves along the stem. Make an angled cut, just above an outward-facing leaf node.
2. Remove the lower leaves on the stem, dip the cut end in rooting hormone powder, and plant it deeply in a pot containing a soilless seed-starting medium mixed with moistened vermiculite or perlite.
3. Cover the cuttings loosely with a plastic bag to create humid conditions and place them in a cool (70 degrees F) location away from direct sunlight.
4. Monitor the plants and water if needed, or remove the plastic bag if there seems to be too much moisture. After a few weeks, start checking for new leaf growth, which indicates that the plants are rooting well. Repot the plants into larger containers filled with regular potting soil and gradually expose the plants to full light.
Layering
Layering involves burying a trailing stem of an herb plant, encouraging it to form roots, and ultimately creating a new plant. It works well with perennial herbs such as marjoram, rosemary, sage, and winter savory. The best time to do this kind of propagation is in spring (on last year’s growth) or in summer (on this year’s growth).
1. Select a stem that is long and trailing and that you can bend down easily to touch the ground.
2. Make a slanted cut halfway through the stem (or, with slender stems, scrape the outer surface). Place the cut part of the stem in a shallow depression just below the soil surface, holding down the stem on either side with lengths of metal wire (unbent paper clips are good for this). Cover the cut part of the stem with a little soil, and water well.
3. After six to eight weeks, brush away the soil and check to see whether the stem has begun to form a new root system. If it has, cut the stem that connects the new plant to the mother plant and transplant the new plant elsewhere in the garden.
For more detailed information on propagating herbs, read Growing Herbs from Seed, Cutting, and Root by Thomas DeBaggio (Interweave Press, 1994).
Propagating Herbs
Some herbs are easy to start from seed, whereas others take a long time to germinate and grow and usually are either purchased as plants from a nursery or propagated vegetatively from existing plants (by stem cuttings, layering or root division).
Popular herbs that are easy to grow from seed include basil, borage, calendula, chervil, coriander, dill, lemon balm, parsley and sage. Before sowing any herb, whether in flats or directly in the garden, check its specific germination requirements to see how early you’ll need to start it and whether it requires any special handling (a period of cold dormancy, or stratification; light or darkness for germination; soil temperature; etc.).
Like other plants, most herb seeds should be planted at a depth of only about twice their thickness: with very small seeds, this means sowing on top of moistened soil in flats and gently pressing them in.
If you want to start new herbs from plants that you already have growing in your garden, there are several ways to do it, all of them variations of vegetative propagation.
Root Division
For many hardy perennial herbs, root division is the simplest means of propagation. Using a garden fork, dig up the plant’s root system and either pull the roots apart by hand (as with chives), or cut the root mass into several pieces and replant them elsewhere in the garden.
The best time to divide plants is in the fall, when they are winding down for the year. If divided and replanted at this time, new plants will establish themselves and get off to a good start the following spring. Placing transplants on a small mound of soil or compost in the bottom of the planting hole helps to prevent settling. Firm down the soil around the plants and water them well after planting to eliminate any large air pockets around the roots. Laying a thick organic mulch around plants in the late fall will help insure against crown heaving, which may otherwise occur as a result of freeze/thaw cycles over the winter.
Herbs that respond well to root division include bee balm, chives, garlic chives, horehound, lovage, marjoram, oregano, pennyroyal, sorrel, tansy, thyme, and sweet woodruff.
Cuttings
Stem cuttings of various herbs (hyssop, lavender, mints, oregano, sage, thyme) should be taken during the spring or summer, when plants are healthy and growing vigorously. Rosemary and tarragon tend to root better in the fall, so use them for cuttings at that time and grow them indoors over the winter.
1. Select stem segments that are tender (not woody) and about three to six inches long, with at least five leaves along the stem. Make an angled cut, just above an outward-facing leaf node.
2. Remove the lower leaves on the stem, dip the cut end in rooting hormone powder, and plant it deeply in a pot containing a soilless seed-starting medium mixed with moistened vermiculite or perlite.
3. Cover the cuttings loosely with a plastic bag to create humid conditions and place them in a cool (70 degrees F) location away from direct sunlight.
4. Monitor the plants and water if needed, or remove the plastic bag if there seems to be too much moisture. After a few weeks, start checking for new leaf growth, which indicates that the plants are rooting well. Repot the plants into larger containers filled with regular potting soil and gradually expose the plants to full light.
Layering
Layering involves burying a trailing stem of an herb plant, encouraging it to form roots, and ultimately creating a new plant. It works well with perennial herbs such as marjoram, rosemary, sage, and winter savory. The best time to do this kind of propagation is in spring (on last year’s growth) or in summer (on this year’s growth).
1. Select a stem that is long and trailing and that you can bend down easily to touch the ground.
2. Make a slanted cut halfway through the stem (or, with slender stems, scrape the outer surface). Place the cut part of the stem in a shallow depression just below the soil surface, holding down the stem on either side with lengths of metal wire (unbent paper clips are good for this). Cover the cut part of the stem with a little soil, and water well.
3. After six to eight weeks, brush away the soil and check to see whether the stem has begun to form a new root system. If it has, cut the stem that connects the new plant to the mother plant and transplant the new plant elsewhere in the garden.
For more detailed information on propagating herbs, read Growing Herbs from Seed, Cutting, and Root by Thomas DeBaggio (Interweave Press, 1994).
Designing an Herb Garden
As a group, herbs are extremely versatile plants and lend themselves to a variety of garden styles and settings. The monasteries of the Middle Ages were famous for their medicinal herb or “physic” gardens, which in addition to leafy herbs included many flowering plants such as roses and irises.
By the 16th century in England, the “knot garden” had become a popular design for a formal herb planting, with a rectangular bed laid out in an intricate geometrical pattern. Inside the interlacing lines of herbs or miniature box (Buxus) hedges, small beds or compartments were each planted with a single variety of herb, often selected for its ornamental foliage.
Formal Design Elements
The intricate knot garden is still a beautiful way to grow herbs, but today most home gardeners find the heavy maintenance required to keep it weeded, pruned and looking good too formidable and time-consuming. However, if a formal herb garden fits with your house and landscape, you can incorporate some traditional design elements that will lend the appeal of a formal appearance without the high maintenance.
The most basic characteristic of all formal herb gardens is their use of a “focal point,” something that draws the eye to the center of the design. This center point is typically an architectural feature, such as a sundial, pedestal, column, birdbath, fountain or a decorative or distinctive pot. When planning an herb garden, start with this central focal point and work outward, defining beds with radiating paths that divide the garden into quarters (for a square or rectangle) or into pie-shaped sections for a circle or wheel design (see illustrations). The point of these formal designs is to set off each individual herb, rather than merging different types into an indistinct hedge or border.
Many kinds of perennial plants — both herbaceous and woody — can be used for edging in the formal herb garden, from shrubs such as southernwood (Artemisia abrotanum) and various evergreens to low ground covers such as creeping thyme (Thymus praecox). Another idea, especially if your soil is heavy or clayey, is to grow herbs in a number of neatly sided raised beds, organized in a geometrical pattern.
Paths or edgings made of bricks or other paving materials such as Belgian blocks add a nice formality to the herb garden. Paved paths provide easy access to the beds for maintenance and serve as walkways — plus, they are easier to maintain than traditional boxwood hedges. Another benefit of bricks is that they soak up and retain the warmth of the sun, something that is appreciated, especially in the cooler climates, by heat-loving Mediterranean herbs.
Informal Garden Ideas
Formal gardens are beautiful, but many people prefer to incorporate herbs into their existing garden spaces, among either ornamental or edible plants. Annual herbs such as basil and summer savory are natural partners for tomatoes and beans in the vegetable garden, while purple-leaved basil or calendula make good choices in an annual or mixed flower bed. Perennial herbs such as creeping thyme feel right at home in a rock garden, while taller plants such as hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis) and silvery wormwood (Artemisia absinthium) fit nicely into an ornamental border.
Another way of using herbs in the landscape is to combine fragrant plants to make a “scented garden.” First, find a sunny spot where you might enjoy sitting with your morning cup of coffee, or in the evening after dinner. Reserve a spot in or next to the garden for a wooden garden bench, or a table and chairs for outdoor dining and entertaining. Then select herbs of various heights and growing habits, whose scents will turn this spot into a pleasant area for reading, socializing, or private meditation.
So many herbs have a delightful fragrance that it’s hard to limit yourself to just a few. Some excellent choices for the scented garden include English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), lemon balm (Melissa officinalis), all kinds of mints, oregano, rosemary, scented geraniums (Pelargonium spp.), costmary (Chrysanthemum balsamita), and dame’s rocket (Hesperis matronalis), whose flowers release a delightful clovelike aroma in the evening. Plant fragrant ground covers such as creeping thyme (Thymus praecox) and Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile), perhaps in gaps between flagstones or other large, flat paving stones set around the area.
Gardeners who are interested in naturalizing herbs in a somewhat wilder setting can select from a wide range of hardy plant species. Certain herbs are aggressive and vigorous, fitting better into the landscape at large than in a mixed bed or border, where they can quickly crowd out other plants. Examples include various mints (Mentha spp.), elecampane (Inula helenium), comfrey (Symphytum caucasicum), tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), and soapwort or bouncing-bet (Saponaria officinalis). Look around your property and see what kinds of sites and soils you have; you’re sure to find niches that offer the perfect conditions for some of these wilder herbs to thrive and spread.
Growing Herbs in Containers
Growing different types of herbs in containers is a great idea for several reasons. First of all, you can grow tender perennials like rosemary and flowering sages all year long, bringing the pots indoors as days shorten and temperatures dip in the fall. Secondly, growing in containers gives you the flexibility to move plants around outside and display them to best effect. Containers also are a boon for gardeners who have poorly drained soil or limited growing space.
The soil you use in containers should be well-drained; regular potting soil amended with perlite and vermiculite will suit most plants. As with other plants in containers, herbs require regular watering and fertilization throughout the growing season. Plants like rosemary can tolerate fairly dry soil between waterings, but other herbs with broader leaves need more attention to watering when grown in pots. Adding finished compost or peat moss to the soil mix when you are potting plants will help the soil retain moisture.
During the outdoor growing season most potted herbs can be fertilized as frequently as once a week. Use a liquid fish or seaweed emulsion or a complete liquid fertilizer. Once you bring plants inside for the winter, they require much less fertilization; once or twice a month is sufficient. Especially after plants are inside, it’s important to practice “flush watering” regularly; in other words, keep adding liquid until you see water running out of the bottom hole in the pot and into the tray beneath. This prevents fertilizer salts from building up in the soil.
Herb plants that can live for several years in pots include rosemary, lemon verbena, bay laurel and scented geraniums. Check plants periodically to see whether they need to be repotted into a larger container.
During the winter, the best place for herbs is inside the house next to a cool, sunny window, where they can get about three or four hours of direct sunlight every day. Conditions inside most houses during the winter months are dry, so mist plants or place them in trays on top of watered pebbles to increase the humidity level.
Plants that you bring inside for the winter invariably experience some insect problems. This is frequently due to the stress of being moved into an indoor environment and new growing conditions. The best way to minimize this stress is to dig and pot up plants at least a couple of weeks before the first frost, then acclimate them gradually to indoor conditions, perhaps by moving them to a porch or breezeway (a reverse process to the hardening-off that you do in the spring with plants started indoors). Watch the plants closely for the first few weeks inside, and pamper them by providing plenty of water and misting them.
Even given this tender loving care, some herbs will become infested with insects. If you shake a plant and see a cloud of whiteflies, it’s a good idea to set the plant in the shower briefly and wash the insects off the leaves. Then spray the plant with an insecticidal soap or hot pepper wax. Follow label instructions and repeat treatments as needed. Some long-lived herbs can be pruned and trained into interesting topiary shapes or ball-headed “standards,” which makes them valuable as formal accents on a patio, entrance, or walkway during the summer, and as houseplants during the cooler months of the year.
Harvesting and Preserving Herbs
The uses for herbs, and the number of products and recipes that can be made with them, are practically endless, including herbal recipes, crafts, gifts and other items. Oone topic of interest to gardeners, cooks, and crafters alike is when and how to harvest herbs, and how best to preserve them so that they retain as much of their flavor and fragrance as possible.
In almost all cases, the best time to harvest herbs is when the plants are forming buds, but before they have flowered. At this time, the plant’s leaves contain the highest concentration of essential oils. A few exceptions include lavender, which is valued mostly for its flower buds, and herbs like calendula and chamomile, which are harvested for their flowers.
Probably the easiest and most common method of drying various kinds of herbs is to cut back whole stems of plants and bunch a dozen or so together, securing them with a rubber band at the end. Then bring them into a warm, dry place out of direct light and hang the bunches up from hooks or rafters to air-dry. Leaves should be crisp and dry in seven to ten days, at which time you can take down the bunches and strip the leaves from the stems over a newspaper or large tray, discarding any debris or leaves that look discolored. Pour the herb leaves into tightly sealed jars or other containers, label them, and store them in a cool, dark place.
Not all herbs will air-dry successfully in this way. Basil, for instance, tends to turn brown and lose a lot of its pizzazz when hung up in bunches. An alternative to bunch drying is to place herbs on a drying rack in a just-warm oven, or in a dehydrator, which will dry leaves more quickly than simply hanging them up.
Even faster is to spread herbs between paper towels in a single layer and place them in a microwave oven. In her book Living with Herbs, Jo Ann Gardner recommends zapping herbs in the microwave for two minutes, then taking them out and checking them. If the leaves aren’t crisp-dry, she puts them back in the microwave and zaps them for additional 30-second intervals until they are done. Microwaves and leaf thickness may vary, so this method requires some experimentation.
Finally, a neat alternative to drying some herbs such as parsley, chervil, and basil for use as seasoning is to place two cups of fresh herbs in a blender with one cup of water and then process them. Pour the resulting slurry into ice-cube trays and freeze. Remove the cubes from the trays and put them in freezer bags. Then they can be taken out as needed and dropped as seasonings into soups, stews, and other recipes.
Resources
Favorite Books
Living with Herbs by Jo Ann Gardner (Countryman Press, 1997).
Your Backyard Herb Garden by Miranda Smith (Rodale, 1997).
The Encyclopedia of Medicinal Plants by Andrew Chavelier (DK Publishing, 1996).
Web Sites
Algy’s Herb Page
Herb Research Foundation
The Herb Society of America
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Growing Herbs in Pots
by Brenda Hyde
Some of you may not have room at all for herbs unless they are in pots. Never fear, you can have a pot garden! Many of the herbs will grow fine in pots when they have plenty of sun and are watered on a regular basis. Even if you are in an apartment with a patio or balcony you can do this. Chances are you have a sunny space, and the herbs will love the heat!
First, lets talk again about the soil for pots. Use a good potting soil- if it doesn't have limestone added-then add 1 tsp. per 6 inch pot--2 tsp. for 12 inch etc. It doesn't have to be exact. Don't use garden soil--it's too heavy for pots and won't work as well. The smallest pot you should use for herbs is 6 inches (across). This size works well for outside shelving or windowsills. The 8, 10 and 12 inch work great. All your pots don't need to be the same size. Use what you have! The ultimate are the half whiskey type barrels. You can get a lot of herbs in one of those! BUT, it can't be moved easily, so place it before filling with soil.
The pots must have good drainage or the plant roots may rot. Unglazed terra cotta works the best for all types of herbs. Plastic pots can work for mints and other herbs that like moisture but you still have to be so careful to not overwater. Group the plastic away from the clay, so you can adjust the watering schedule.
What herbs grow best in containers? In this article we're discussing containers placed outside--on a deck, porch, patio etc. These herbs tend to do better in pots: parsley, oregano, rosemary, marjoram, basil, thyme, chives, lemon verbena, mints, nasturtiums, sage, cilantro, shorter varieties of dill, tarragon, calendula, chervil, coriander, and summer savory. Wow, that is a lot of culinary herbs! You'll be able to cook, make vinegars, create blends and still have enough to freeze! There are more herbs than this that will be able to adapt to pots, so don't be afraid to experiment if you have an idea.
What is the most important thing to remember when growing herbs in pots? Watering daily when it doesn't rain and pinching out herbs that tend to grow tall. Pinch from the middle, harvest from the sides later. Once you have gotten your watering schedule down (be sure to ask someone to do it for you if you go out of town) then make sure you harvest on a regular basis when the herbs are ready. Do not allow them to bloom--especially the basil. Keep the herbs clipped, neat and trim. You can add sphagnum moss, wood chips, or gravel to the top of your containers to help keep moisture in too. If you are in a dry, hot climate it would be an added benefit for your plants to be misted on a daily basis.
Some plants that can be a nuisance in the herb bed, aren't in a pot. Mints are a good example. They can be kept under control so much better in pot. Their roots can't spread, and if you harvest often they won't bloom and reseed either! A large pot of chocolate mint is no doubt one of my favorite things.
So, how do you decide what to plant? Figure out how much space you can give to your pots. They should get at least 6 hours of sun per day. Gather all of your empty pots together to see what you have available. Decide if you should buy a few more and go from there.Think about what you want from your herb garden. Do you want herbs for soups, stews, meats and vegetables? Do you want to make vinegars? Or maybe dry extra for winter? Sit down with paper and pencil and write all of this out. Eliminate the herbs you really don't think you will use. Here are some ideas-some of which includes tomatoes and peppers:
Salads: Nasturtiums, tomatoes, basil, chives, oregano, parsley
Italian: oregano, basil, patio type tomato, marjoram, rosemary
Mexican: cilantro, pepper plant, oregano,
Fragrance: lavender, rosemary, miniature roses, mints
Vinegars: dill, basil, oregano, nasturtium, chives, sage
Finally, I have some tips on individual herbs and the size pots they may need and a few other tidbits.
A row of the smaller, 6 inch pots would work well for thyme, oregano, cilantro or marjoram. 8 inch pots work better for chives, parsley, and basils. The bigger 10-12 inch pots work the best for herbs such as rosemary, sage, lavender and the mints.
Lemongrass can be grow in a pot outdoors after the nights are above 60 degrees F. The container should be at least 12 inches wide and deep. Let it almost dry out between waterings. You'll have to bring it in if you have hard frosts, but it can stay outside the entire summer.
As you can see, the possibilities are endless when it comes to pot gardens!
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Harvesting and Storing Herbs
Harvesting Your Herbs
Reaping your bountiful herb harvest is a very easy process, here are a
few tips can improve your harvest and help preserve the health of your
plants.
*Give young, recent transplants time to adjust to their new home in the
garden and sufficient time to grow before the first harvest.
*When harvesting herbs for cooking, harvest them the same day you are
going to use them to preserve freshness.
*Never cut off more than one third of a plant at a time, and give young
plants time to re-grow before harvesting from them again.
*Use sharp scissors and make a clean cut on the stem, taking care not to
cut any leaves. NEVER pull leaves off of a plant.
*When harvesting culinary herbs for drying, harvest just before the
plant produces blooms to ensure the highest oil content in the leaves.
*When harvesting plants for bloom {ex. Lavender}, cut the blooms just
before the earliest blooms on the stem start to wither.
*On annuals herbs always harvest from the growing tips of the stems,
like 'pinching back' the plant. This will make the plant produce more
leaves, reduce flowering and lengthen the life of the plant.
*On perennials always consider the shape of the plant and make sure that
your cutting does not misshape the plant. Think of this harvesting as a
'mini pruning'.
*When harvesting chives always cut spears at the base of the plant. This
will encourage new growth.
By Brenda Hyde
I am not going to pretend to know the proper technique for every herb out there-there are far too many! But, over the years I have gathered many harvest and storage tips that have worked for me and many other gardeners. My first tip is to be brave! So many people that write me are afraid to cut back their herb plants. Herbs are very tough with the right conditions. It's often what you least expect that hurts them-such as overwatering, too much fertilizer or too rich of a soil. Many herbs, such as lemon balm, mint, chives, sage and oregano maybe cut within two or three inches of the ground and will grow back within no time for another harvest! If you are in doubt, you can cut back by half to be cautious.
Gather your herbs, using sharp kitchen or gardening shears, in the morning after the dew has dried. You will also catch the peak flavor if you harvest just BEFORE flowering, but don't let this deter you from harvesting if you have missed that time frame. You can dry the flowers for wreaths and dried arrangements and use the leaves for cooking. If you live in a zone that freezes be sure to allow your herbs a month and 1/2 or so before frost to grow after you harvest and before the first frost.
Storage Techniques-
Freezing-I love this method. Simply cut stems or leaves of the herbs, rinse, pat dry and freeze in resealable bags. The small ones work well or if you would like to cut whole sprigs use the large gallon size. Label and freeze-later pull out what you need and replace the unused portions. You can also freeze chopped herbs in ice cube trays with water. After they freeze remove them and store in bags. This is good for using in soups.
Drying-Cut whole branches of the herb plant and tie with string or rubber bands. Hang in a dry, clean place such as an enclosed shed or attic. You can place paper sacks over the herbs as well while they are hanging to avoid dust. When they are dry, crumble into a glass or plastic container and store in a dry, cool location. I have dried entire plants this way-if they are annuals-just pull up and dry. Peppers will dry nicely with this method too. You can also dry herbs by laying on clean screens until dry. If you harvest large leaf herbs such as lovage, comfrey or large leaf basil, remove the leaves and place on screens. If using this method, turn the herbs during the first few days. You can also dry in a very low temperature in the oven on cookie sheets. Watch carefully and turn often.
Herb Salts: I also make herb salt each year. In a 250 degree oven spread a layer of free running salt on a cookie sheet. Sprinkle the chopped fresh herbs on top of the salt, and bake for 10-20 minutes, stirring and checking often. When they are dry enough to crumble, then let cool and crumble the herbs into the salt, stir and place in a jar. You can use this as a seasoning salt; especially good with vegetables! Herbs that work well are chives, oregano, thyme, lemon balm or lemon thyme, parsley rosemary or basil.
Microwave-You can dry herbs in your microwave, but it's slow and time consuming. However, it does work! Line the turntable with paper towels. Place the herb leaves on the table so they aren't touching. I microwave for one minute-check and then try 30 seconds at a time until they are dry to the touch. Some herbs take less time, some more. When dry, crumble into containers. I like this method for trying different tea combinations. Mint and lemon balms worked well. I dried and put equal amounts of both into a tea bag and sealed for using later, or you can store in small plastic bags.
Some herbs do not dry well, such as chives or fennel, but try freezing, or using the herb salt method. Below I have several recipes that will help you to use your herb harvest this season.
Basil Puree
4 tablespoons olive oil
8 cups washed and dried basil leaves
Blend until pureed. Transfer to clean jar. Store in refrigerator. Each time you use it stir and then top with a thin layer of oil. It will keep one year by doing this. This is good on grilled chicken or fish, stirred into soups or mixed with sun dried tomatoes and broiled on bread.
Zesty Herb Blend
3 tablespoons dried basil
3 tablespoons dried marjoram
3 tablespoons dried thyme
3 tablespoons dried tarragon
1 tablespoon dried lemon peel
1 tablespoon whole oregano
Place all items in a small jar and seal. Shake until well blended. This is great for adding to meat and vegetables.
Bouquet Garni:
Herb bouquet or bouquet garni, as the French call it, is easy to make and use. Place dried herbs into cheesecloth bags, about two and one-half inches square that can be sewn by hand or machine. Tie or sew the top shut. Place in soups and stews. 1 tsp. each of parsley, thyme, basil, celery leaves, and 1/2 tsp. each of sage, rosemary or dried lemon peel is a good blend to use.
Fines Herbes Butter
1 cup butter
2 tablespoons parsley
2 tablespoons chives
1 tablespoon tarragon
Mince herbs and mix all with room temperature butter by hand or mixer. Chill for at least 3 hours before serving. Wonderful with vegetables, eggs, fish or bread.
I love herbs, growing them, smelling them, cooking with them, drying them and making things with them.
So I've loaded up on all the one's that I love and could find locally this year, plus one of my wonderful son in laws, got me 6 so he made Points once again, he does that well..;)
They are so pretty, don't you agree? Yes So fresh and oh you should smell them
When growing herbs you need to remember....water fresh water almost daily, unless it rains, then save your water for a day or until it stops raining. Make sure they have good drainage and get a good amount of sun.
Touch them, look for any pests, the good thing is most herbs don't get too many pests, in fact they even repel some pests.
Here are tips on growing herbs
Grow Fragrant, Flavorful and Healing Plants
Where would humans be without herbs? Considering how many centuries we have used plants for their culinary or healing properties, our world would certainly be a poorer place without them. Gardeners would be especially destitute: no longer would we enjoy the clean, heady fragrances of mint or lavender, the intense flavors of basil or rosemary, or the healing balm of comfrey or calendula. Herbs are beautiful plants, and their easy care and deep historical significance only adds to their lasting charm.
Fortunately, herbs are here to stay, and they remain as popular today as ever — perhaps even more so. Cooks love the unique flavors that herbs — fresh or dried — lend to all kinds of food and drink. Herbal crafters preserve the beauty and fragrance of flowers and leaves in potpourri, wreaths, sachets and dried arrangements. And gardeners value herbs for all their excellent qualities, including their vigor, low maintenance, and resistance to pests.
What Is an Herb?
When most of us think of herbs, we picture the common kitchen seasonings — basil, rosemary, sage, thyme, and so on. Yet in the broadest sense of the word, an herb is any plant that is considered “useful” in some respect to humans. The leaves, roots, seeds, stems or flowers of an herb might be important as a source of flavoring, medicine, fragrance, dye or some other product. And just as we might consider any aggressive plant a “weed” when it is growing someplace where we don’t want it, so an “herb” is any type of plant — annual, perennial, tree, shrub or vine — that has some practical value beyond looking beautiful in the garden.
Not that good looks don’t count. In fact, gardeners regularly grow many useful herbs not so much for their culinary or medicinal properties, but simply because they work so well in the landscape. Unless you are a devoted herbalist, you probably don’t use dried peony roots as a remedy for cold sores, or pick the leaves of betony (Stachys spp.) to use as a natural bandage (its other common name is woundwort).
Instead, we grow these “herbs” because we like having them in the garden as ornamentals. Yet exploring the useful properties of many of our favorite plants, though little appreciated in this modern consumer age, can add a whole new dimension to gardening and inspire a lifelong fascination with herbs.
Site and Soil Considerations
Most herbs grow best in a well-drained, moderately rich garden soil. However, some of the most popular herbs, such as rosemary, lavender, bay and winter savory, are woody plants native to the Mediterranean region. These herbs prefer a gritty, sharply drained soil. Good drainage is extremely important because standing water around the root crown of plants can cause them to rot. To keep these plants happy in garden soil that is particularly heavy or clayey, you will need to improve drainage either by adding lots of organic matter like compost, or by growing herbs in raised beds or containers.
Another crucial factor to consider is the amount of sunlight a plant needs to “see” every day. Most common herbs thrive in full sun conditions (six or more hours of direct sunlight per day). Don’t despair, though, if you have a garden site that receives only partial sun (two to six hours per day). Many herbs will thrive with less sunlight; you just need to select the right types based on the amount of light they can expect to get in your garden.
Many herbs require full sun and warmth to grow well and to develop the essential oils that give them their pungent aroma and flavor. Raised beds are a good way to provide not only better drainage, but warmer soil, especially early in the season. Using stone or brick as edging for raised beds helps to reflect and retain heat in and around the herb garden.
Paving also works well to create a warmer microclimate for heat-loving herbs that are often grown in pots or planters, such as rosemary or bay, and for low-growing ground covers such as creeping thyme.
Like other plants, herbs can become stressed on an especially windy or exposed site. Growing herbs in beds near the house or next to other buildings or walls provides the plants with a warm, sheltering microclimate and increases a gardener’s chances of success with tender perennials like rosemary, which is hardy only to Zone 8. Even if, like most American gardeners, you grow rosemary in containers and bring it indoors for the winter, it’s still a good idea to set it out in a sunny, sheltered area, one that duplicates as closely as possible its native growing conditions.
Pest and Disease Control
Some herbs are easy to start from seed, whereas others take a long time to germinate and grow and usually are either purchased as plants from a nursery or propagated vegetatively from existing plants (by stem cuttings, layering or root division).
Popular herbs that are easy to grow from seed include basil, borage, calendula, chervil, coriander, dill, lemon balm, parsley and sage. Before sowing any herb, whether in flats or directly in the garden, check its specific germination requirements to see how early you’ll need to start it and whether it requires any special handling (a period of cold dormancy, or stratification; light or darkness for germination; soil temperature; etc.).
Like other plants, most herb seeds should be planted at a depth of only about twice their thickness: with very small seeds, this means sowing on top of moistened soil in flats and gently pressing them in.
If you want to start new herbs from plants that you already have growing in your garden, there are several ways to do it, all of them variations of vegetative propagation.
Root Division
For many hardy perennial herbs, root division is the simplest means of propagation. Using a garden fork, dig up the plant’s root system and either pull the roots apart by hand (as with chives), or cut the root mass into several pieces and replant them elsewhere in the garden.
The best time to divide plants is in the fall, when they are winding down for the year. If divided and replanted at this time, new plants will establish themselves and get off to a good start the following spring. Placing transplants on a small mound of soil or compost in the bottom of the planting hole helps to prevent settling. Firm down the soil around the plants and water them well after planting to eliminate any large air pockets around the roots. Laying a thick organic mulch around plants in the late fall will help insure against crown heaving, which may otherwise occur as a result of freeze/thaw cycles over the winter.
Herbs that respond well to root division include bee balm, chives, garlic chives, horehound, lovage, marjoram, oregano, pennyroyal, sorrel, tansy, thyme, and sweet woodruff.
Cuttings
Stem cuttings of various herbs (hyssop, lavender, mints, oregano, sage, thyme) should be taken during the spring or summer, when plants are healthy and growing vigorously. Rosemary and tarragon tend to root better in the fall, so use them for cuttings at that time and grow them indoors over the winter.
1. Select stem segments that are tender (not woody) and about three to six inches long, with at least five leaves along the stem. Make an angled cut, just above an outward-facing leaf node.
2. Remove the lower leaves on the stem, dip the cut end in rooting hormone powder, and plant it deeply in a pot containing a soilless seed-starting medium mixed with moistened vermiculite or perlite.
3. Cover the cuttings loosely with a plastic bag to create humid conditions and place them in a cool (70 degrees F) location away from direct sunlight.
4. Monitor the plants and water if needed, or remove the plastic bag if there seems to be too much moisture. After a few weeks, start checking for new leaf growth, which indicates that the plants are rooting well. Repot the plants into larger containers filled with regular potting soil and gradually expose the plants to full light.
Layering
Layering involves burying a trailing stem of an herb plant, encouraging it to form roots, and ultimately creating a new plant. It works well with perennial herbs such as marjoram, rosemary, sage, and winter savory. The best time to do this kind of propagation is in spring (on last year’s growth) or in summer (on this year’s growth).
1. Select a stem that is long and trailing and that you can bend down easily to touch the ground.
2. Make a slanted cut halfway through the stem (or, with slender stems, scrape the outer surface). Place the cut part of the stem in a shallow depression just below the soil surface, holding down the stem on either side with lengths of metal wire (unbent paper clips are good for this). Cover the cut part of the stem with a little soil, and water well.
3. After six to eight weeks, brush away the soil and check to see whether the stem has begun to form a new root system. If it has, cut the stem that connects the new plant to the mother plant and transplant the new plant elsewhere in the garden.
For more detailed information on propagating herbs, read Growing Herbs from Seed, Cutting, and Root by Thomas DeBaggio (Interweave Press, 1994).
Propagating Herbs
Some herbs are easy to start from seed, whereas others take a long time to germinate and grow and usually are either purchased as plants from a nursery or propagated vegetatively from existing plants (by stem cuttings, layering or root division).
Popular herbs that are easy to grow from seed include basil, borage, calendula, chervil, coriander, dill, lemon balm, parsley and sage. Before sowing any herb, whether in flats or directly in the garden, check its specific germination requirements to see how early you’ll need to start it and whether it requires any special handling (a period of cold dormancy, or stratification; light or darkness for germination; soil temperature; etc.).
Like other plants, most herb seeds should be planted at a depth of only about twice their thickness: with very small seeds, this means sowing on top of moistened soil in flats and gently pressing them in.
If you want to start new herbs from plants that you already have growing in your garden, there are several ways to do it, all of them variations of vegetative propagation.
Root Division
For many hardy perennial herbs, root division is the simplest means of propagation. Using a garden fork, dig up the plant’s root system and either pull the roots apart by hand (as with chives), or cut the root mass into several pieces and replant them elsewhere in the garden.
The best time to divide plants is in the fall, when they are winding down for the year. If divided and replanted at this time, new plants will establish themselves and get off to a good start the following spring. Placing transplants on a small mound of soil or compost in the bottom of the planting hole helps to prevent settling. Firm down the soil around the plants and water them well after planting to eliminate any large air pockets around the roots. Laying a thick organic mulch around plants in the late fall will help insure against crown heaving, which may otherwise occur as a result of freeze/thaw cycles over the winter.
Herbs that respond well to root division include bee balm, chives, garlic chives, horehound, lovage, marjoram, oregano, pennyroyal, sorrel, tansy, thyme, and sweet woodruff.
Cuttings
Stem cuttings of various herbs (hyssop, lavender, mints, oregano, sage, thyme) should be taken during the spring or summer, when plants are healthy and growing vigorously. Rosemary and tarragon tend to root better in the fall, so use them for cuttings at that time and grow them indoors over the winter.
1. Select stem segments that are tender (not woody) and about three to six inches long, with at least five leaves along the stem. Make an angled cut, just above an outward-facing leaf node.
2. Remove the lower leaves on the stem, dip the cut end in rooting hormone powder, and plant it deeply in a pot containing a soilless seed-starting medium mixed with moistened vermiculite or perlite.
3. Cover the cuttings loosely with a plastic bag to create humid conditions and place them in a cool (70 degrees F) location away from direct sunlight.
4. Monitor the plants and water if needed, or remove the plastic bag if there seems to be too much moisture. After a few weeks, start checking for new leaf growth, which indicates that the plants are rooting well. Repot the plants into larger containers filled with regular potting soil and gradually expose the plants to full light.
Layering
Layering involves burying a trailing stem of an herb plant, encouraging it to form roots, and ultimately creating a new plant. It works well with perennial herbs such as marjoram, rosemary, sage, and winter savory. The best time to do this kind of propagation is in spring (on last year’s growth) or in summer (on this year’s growth).
1. Select a stem that is long and trailing and that you can bend down easily to touch the ground.
2. Make a slanted cut halfway through the stem (or, with slender stems, scrape the outer surface). Place the cut part of the stem in a shallow depression just below the soil surface, holding down the stem on either side with lengths of metal wire (unbent paper clips are good for this). Cover the cut part of the stem with a little soil, and water well.
3. After six to eight weeks, brush away the soil and check to see whether the stem has begun to form a new root system. If it has, cut the stem that connects the new plant to the mother plant and transplant the new plant elsewhere in the garden.
For more detailed information on propagating herbs, read Growing Herbs from Seed, Cutting, and Root by Thomas DeBaggio (Interweave Press, 1994).
Designing an Herb Garden
As a group, herbs are extremely versatile plants and lend themselves to a variety of garden styles and settings. The monasteries of the Middle Ages were famous for their medicinal herb or “physic” gardens, which in addition to leafy herbs included many flowering plants such as roses and irises.
By the 16th century in England, the “knot garden” had become a popular design for a formal herb planting, with a rectangular bed laid out in an intricate geometrical pattern. Inside the interlacing lines of herbs or miniature box (Buxus) hedges, small beds or compartments were each planted with a single variety of herb, often selected for its ornamental foliage.
Formal Design Elements
The intricate knot garden is still a beautiful way to grow herbs, but today most home gardeners find the heavy maintenance required to keep it weeded, pruned and looking good too formidable and time-consuming. However, if a formal herb garden fits with your house and landscape, you can incorporate some traditional design elements that will lend the appeal of a formal appearance without the high maintenance.
The most basic characteristic of all formal herb gardens is their use of a “focal point,” something that draws the eye to the center of the design. This center point is typically an architectural feature, such as a sundial, pedestal, column, birdbath, fountain or a decorative or distinctive pot. When planning an herb garden, start with this central focal point and work outward, defining beds with radiating paths that divide the garden into quarters (for a square or rectangle) or into pie-shaped sections for a circle or wheel design (see illustrations). The point of these formal designs is to set off each individual herb, rather than merging different types into an indistinct hedge or border.
Many kinds of perennial plants — both herbaceous and woody — can be used for edging in the formal herb garden, from shrubs such as southernwood (Artemisia abrotanum) and various evergreens to low ground covers such as creeping thyme (Thymus praecox). Another idea, especially if your soil is heavy or clayey, is to grow herbs in a number of neatly sided raised beds, organized in a geometrical pattern.
Paths or edgings made of bricks or other paving materials such as Belgian blocks add a nice formality to the herb garden. Paved paths provide easy access to the beds for maintenance and serve as walkways — plus, they are easier to maintain than traditional boxwood hedges. Another benefit of bricks is that they soak up and retain the warmth of the sun, something that is appreciated, especially in the cooler climates, by heat-loving Mediterranean herbs.
Informal Garden Ideas
Formal gardens are beautiful, but many people prefer to incorporate herbs into their existing garden spaces, among either ornamental or edible plants. Annual herbs such as basil and summer savory are natural partners for tomatoes and beans in the vegetable garden, while purple-leaved basil or calendula make good choices in an annual or mixed flower bed. Perennial herbs such as creeping thyme feel right at home in a rock garden, while taller plants such as hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis) and silvery wormwood (Artemisia absinthium) fit nicely into an ornamental border.
Another way of using herbs in the landscape is to combine fragrant plants to make a “scented garden.” First, find a sunny spot where you might enjoy sitting with your morning cup of coffee, or in the evening after dinner. Reserve a spot in or next to the garden for a wooden garden bench, or a table and chairs for outdoor dining and entertaining. Then select herbs of various heights and growing habits, whose scents will turn this spot into a pleasant area for reading, socializing, or private meditation.
So many herbs have a delightful fragrance that it’s hard to limit yourself to just a few. Some excellent choices for the scented garden include English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), lemon balm (Melissa officinalis), all kinds of mints, oregano, rosemary, scented geraniums (Pelargonium spp.), costmary (Chrysanthemum balsamita), and dame’s rocket (Hesperis matronalis), whose flowers release a delightful clovelike aroma in the evening. Plant fragrant ground covers such as creeping thyme (Thymus praecox) and Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile), perhaps in gaps between flagstones or other large, flat paving stones set around the area.
Gardeners who are interested in naturalizing herbs in a somewhat wilder setting can select from a wide range of hardy plant species. Certain herbs are aggressive and vigorous, fitting better into the landscape at large than in a mixed bed or border, where they can quickly crowd out other plants. Examples include various mints (Mentha spp.), elecampane (Inula helenium), comfrey (Symphytum caucasicum), tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), and soapwort or bouncing-bet (Saponaria officinalis). Look around your property and see what kinds of sites and soils you have; you’re sure to find niches that offer the perfect conditions for some of these wilder herbs to thrive and spread.
Growing Herbs in Containers
Growing different types of herbs in containers is a great idea for several reasons. First of all, you can grow tender perennials like rosemary and flowering sages all year long, bringing the pots indoors as days shorten and temperatures dip in the fall. Secondly, growing in containers gives you the flexibility to move plants around outside and display them to best effect. Containers also are a boon for gardeners who have poorly drained soil or limited growing space.
The soil you use in containers should be well-drained; regular potting soil amended with perlite and vermiculite will suit most plants. As with other plants in containers, herbs require regular watering and fertilization throughout the growing season. Plants like rosemary can tolerate fairly dry soil between waterings, but other herbs with broader leaves need more attention to watering when grown in pots. Adding finished compost or peat moss to the soil mix when you are potting plants will help the soil retain moisture.
During the outdoor growing season most potted herbs can be fertilized as frequently as once a week. Use a liquid fish or seaweed emulsion or a complete liquid fertilizer. Once you bring plants inside for the winter, they require much less fertilization; once or twice a month is sufficient. Especially after plants are inside, it’s important to practice “flush watering” regularly; in other words, keep adding liquid until you see water running out of the bottom hole in the pot and into the tray beneath. This prevents fertilizer salts from building up in the soil.
Herb plants that can live for several years in pots include rosemary, lemon verbena, bay laurel and scented geraniums. Check plants periodically to see whether they need to be repotted into a larger container.
During the winter, the best place for herbs is inside the house next to a cool, sunny window, where they can get about three or four hours of direct sunlight every day. Conditions inside most houses during the winter months are dry, so mist plants or place them in trays on top of watered pebbles to increase the humidity level.
Plants that you bring inside for the winter invariably experience some insect problems. This is frequently due to the stress of being moved into an indoor environment and new growing conditions. The best way to minimize this stress is to dig and pot up plants at least a couple of weeks before the first frost, then acclimate them gradually to indoor conditions, perhaps by moving them to a porch or breezeway (a reverse process to the hardening-off that you do in the spring with plants started indoors). Watch the plants closely for the first few weeks inside, and pamper them by providing plenty of water and misting them.
Even given this tender loving care, some herbs will become infested with insects. If you shake a plant and see a cloud of whiteflies, it’s a good idea to set the plant in the shower briefly and wash the insects off the leaves. Then spray the plant with an insecticidal soap or hot pepper wax. Follow label instructions and repeat treatments as needed. Some long-lived herbs can be pruned and trained into interesting topiary shapes or ball-headed “standards,” which makes them valuable as formal accents on a patio, entrance, or walkway during the summer, and as houseplants during the cooler months of the year.
Harvesting and Preserving Herbs
The uses for herbs, and the number of products and recipes that can be made with them, are practically endless, including herbal recipes, crafts, gifts and other items. Oone topic of interest to gardeners, cooks, and crafters alike is when and how to harvest herbs, and how best to preserve them so that they retain as much of their flavor and fragrance as possible.
In almost all cases, the best time to harvest herbs is when the plants are forming buds, but before they have flowered. At this time, the plant’s leaves contain the highest concentration of essential oils. A few exceptions include lavender, which is valued mostly for its flower buds, and herbs like calendula and chamomile, which are harvested for their flowers.
Probably the easiest and most common method of drying various kinds of herbs is to cut back whole stems of plants and bunch a dozen or so together, securing them with a rubber band at the end. Then bring them into a warm, dry place out of direct light and hang the bunches up from hooks or rafters to air-dry. Leaves should be crisp and dry in seven to ten days, at which time you can take down the bunches and strip the leaves from the stems over a newspaper or large tray, discarding any debris or leaves that look discolored. Pour the herb leaves into tightly sealed jars or other containers, label them, and store them in a cool, dark place.
Not all herbs will air-dry successfully in this way. Basil, for instance, tends to turn brown and lose a lot of its pizzazz when hung up in bunches. An alternative to bunch drying is to place herbs on a drying rack in a just-warm oven, or in a dehydrator, which will dry leaves more quickly than simply hanging them up.
Even faster is to spread herbs between paper towels in a single layer and place them in a microwave oven. In her book Living with Herbs, Jo Ann Gardner recommends zapping herbs in the microwave for two minutes, then taking them out and checking them. If the leaves aren’t crisp-dry, she puts them back in the microwave and zaps them for additional 30-second intervals until they are done. Microwaves and leaf thickness may vary, so this method requires some experimentation.
Finally, a neat alternative to drying some herbs such as parsley, chervil, and basil for use as seasoning is to place two cups of fresh herbs in a blender with one cup of water and then process them. Pour the resulting slurry into ice-cube trays and freeze. Remove the cubes from the trays and put them in freezer bags. Then they can be taken out as needed and dropped as seasonings into soups, stews, and other recipes.
Resources
Favorite Books
Living with Herbs by Jo Ann Gardner (Countryman Press, 1997).
Your Backyard Herb Garden by Miranda Smith (Rodale, 1997).
The Encyclopedia of Medicinal Plants by Andrew Chavelier (DK Publishing, 1996).
Web Sites
Algy’s Herb Page
Herb Research Foundation
The Herb Society of America
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Growing Herbs in Pots
by Brenda Hyde
Some of you may not have room at all for herbs unless they are in pots. Never fear, you can have a pot garden! Many of the herbs will grow fine in pots when they have plenty of sun and are watered on a regular basis. Even if you are in an apartment with a patio or balcony you can do this. Chances are you have a sunny space, and the herbs will love the heat!
First, lets talk again about the soil for pots. Use a good potting soil- if it doesn't have limestone added-then add 1 tsp. per 6 inch pot--2 tsp. for 12 inch etc. It doesn't have to be exact. Don't use garden soil--it's too heavy for pots and won't work as well. The smallest pot you should use for herbs is 6 inches (across). This size works well for outside shelving or windowsills. The 8, 10 and 12 inch work great. All your pots don't need to be the same size. Use what you have! The ultimate are the half whiskey type barrels. You can get a lot of herbs in one of those! BUT, it can't be moved easily, so place it before filling with soil.
The pots must have good drainage or the plant roots may rot. Unglazed terra cotta works the best for all types of herbs. Plastic pots can work for mints and other herbs that like moisture but you still have to be so careful to not overwater. Group the plastic away from the clay, so you can adjust the watering schedule.
What herbs grow best in containers? In this article we're discussing containers placed outside--on a deck, porch, patio etc. These herbs tend to do better in pots: parsley, oregano, rosemary, marjoram, basil, thyme, chives, lemon verbena, mints, nasturtiums, sage, cilantro, shorter varieties of dill, tarragon, calendula, chervil, coriander, and summer savory. Wow, that is a lot of culinary herbs! You'll be able to cook, make vinegars, create blends and still have enough to freeze! There are more herbs than this that will be able to adapt to pots, so don't be afraid to experiment if you have an idea.
What is the most important thing to remember when growing herbs in pots? Watering daily when it doesn't rain and pinching out herbs that tend to grow tall. Pinch from the middle, harvest from the sides later. Once you have gotten your watering schedule down (be sure to ask someone to do it for you if you go out of town) then make sure you harvest on a regular basis when the herbs are ready. Do not allow them to bloom--especially the basil. Keep the herbs clipped, neat and trim. You can add sphagnum moss, wood chips, or gravel to the top of your containers to help keep moisture in too. If you are in a dry, hot climate it would be an added benefit for your plants to be misted on a daily basis.
Some plants that can be a nuisance in the herb bed, aren't in a pot. Mints are a good example. They can be kept under control so much better in pot. Their roots can't spread, and if you harvest often they won't bloom and reseed either! A large pot of chocolate mint is no doubt one of my favorite things.
So, how do you decide what to plant? Figure out how much space you can give to your pots. They should get at least 6 hours of sun per day. Gather all of your empty pots together to see what you have available. Decide if you should buy a few more and go from there.Think about what you want from your herb garden. Do you want herbs for soups, stews, meats and vegetables? Do you want to make vinegars? Or maybe dry extra for winter? Sit down with paper and pencil and write all of this out. Eliminate the herbs you really don't think you will use. Here are some ideas-some of which includes tomatoes and peppers:
Salads: Nasturtiums, tomatoes, basil, chives, oregano, parsley
Italian: oregano, basil, patio type tomato, marjoram, rosemary
Mexican: cilantro, pepper plant, oregano,
Fragrance: lavender, rosemary, miniature roses, mints
Vinegars: dill, basil, oregano, nasturtium, chives, sage
Finally, I have some tips on individual herbs and the size pots they may need and a few other tidbits.
A row of the smaller, 6 inch pots would work well for thyme, oregano, cilantro or marjoram. 8 inch pots work better for chives, parsley, and basils. The bigger 10-12 inch pots work the best for herbs such as rosemary, sage, lavender and the mints.
Lemongrass can be grow in a pot outdoors after the nights are above 60 degrees F. The container should be at least 12 inches wide and deep. Let it almost dry out between waterings. You'll have to bring it in if you have hard frosts, but it can stay outside the entire summer.
As you can see, the possibilities are endless when it comes to pot gardens!
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Harvesting and Storing Herbs
Harvesting Your Herbs
Reaping your bountiful herb harvest is a very easy process, here are a
few tips can improve your harvest and help preserve the health of your
plants.
*Give young, recent transplants time to adjust to their new home in the
garden and sufficient time to grow before the first harvest.
*When harvesting herbs for cooking, harvest them the same day you are
going to use them to preserve freshness.
*Never cut off more than one third of a plant at a time, and give young
plants time to re-grow before harvesting from them again.
*Use sharp scissors and make a clean cut on the stem, taking care not to
cut any leaves. NEVER pull leaves off of a plant.
*When harvesting culinary herbs for drying, harvest just before the
plant produces blooms to ensure the highest oil content in the leaves.
*When harvesting plants for bloom {ex. Lavender}, cut the blooms just
before the earliest blooms on the stem start to wither.
*On annuals herbs always harvest from the growing tips of the stems,
like 'pinching back' the plant. This will make the plant produce more
leaves, reduce flowering and lengthen the life of the plant.
*On perennials always consider the shape of the plant and make sure that
your cutting does not misshape the plant. Think of this harvesting as a
'mini pruning'.
*When harvesting chives always cut spears at the base of the plant. This
will encourage new growth.
By Brenda Hyde
I am not going to pretend to know the proper technique for every herb out there-there are far too many! But, over the years I have gathered many harvest and storage tips that have worked for me and many other gardeners. My first tip is to be brave! So many people that write me are afraid to cut back their herb plants. Herbs are very tough with the right conditions. It's often what you least expect that hurts them-such as overwatering, too much fertilizer or too rich of a soil. Many herbs, such as lemon balm, mint, chives, sage and oregano maybe cut within two or three inches of the ground and will grow back within no time for another harvest! If you are in doubt, you can cut back by half to be cautious.
Gather your herbs, using sharp kitchen or gardening shears, in the morning after the dew has dried. You will also catch the peak flavor if you harvest just BEFORE flowering, but don't let this deter you from harvesting if you have missed that time frame. You can dry the flowers for wreaths and dried arrangements and use the leaves for cooking. If you live in a zone that freezes be sure to allow your herbs a month and 1/2 or so before frost to grow after you harvest and before the first frost.
Storage Techniques-
Freezing-I love this method. Simply cut stems or leaves of the herbs, rinse, pat dry and freeze in resealable bags. The small ones work well or if you would like to cut whole sprigs use the large gallon size. Label and freeze-later pull out what you need and replace the unused portions. You can also freeze chopped herbs in ice cube trays with water. After they freeze remove them and store in bags. This is good for using in soups.
Drying-Cut whole branches of the herb plant and tie with string or rubber bands. Hang in a dry, clean place such as an enclosed shed or attic. You can place paper sacks over the herbs as well while they are hanging to avoid dust. When they are dry, crumble into a glass or plastic container and store in a dry, cool location. I have dried entire plants this way-if they are annuals-just pull up and dry. Peppers will dry nicely with this method too. You can also dry herbs by laying on clean screens until dry. If you harvest large leaf herbs such as lovage, comfrey or large leaf basil, remove the leaves and place on screens. If using this method, turn the herbs during the first few days. You can also dry in a very low temperature in the oven on cookie sheets. Watch carefully and turn often.
Herb Salts: I also make herb salt each year. In a 250 degree oven spread a layer of free running salt on a cookie sheet. Sprinkle the chopped fresh herbs on top of the salt, and bake for 10-20 minutes, stirring and checking often. When they are dry enough to crumble, then let cool and crumble the herbs into the salt, stir and place in a jar. You can use this as a seasoning salt; especially good with vegetables! Herbs that work well are chives, oregano, thyme, lemon balm or lemon thyme, parsley rosemary or basil.
Microwave-You can dry herbs in your microwave, but it's slow and time consuming. However, it does work! Line the turntable with paper towels. Place the herb leaves on the table so they aren't touching. I microwave for one minute-check and then try 30 seconds at a time until they are dry to the touch. Some herbs take less time, some more. When dry, crumble into containers. I like this method for trying different tea combinations. Mint and lemon balms worked well. I dried and put equal amounts of both into a tea bag and sealed for using later, or you can store in small plastic bags.
Some herbs do not dry well, such as chives or fennel, but try freezing, or using the herb salt method. Below I have several recipes that will help you to use your herb harvest this season.
Basil Puree
4 tablespoons olive oil
8 cups washed and dried basil leaves
Blend until pureed. Transfer to clean jar. Store in refrigerator. Each time you use it stir and then top with a thin layer of oil. It will keep one year by doing this. This is good on grilled chicken or fish, stirred into soups or mixed with sun dried tomatoes and broiled on bread.
Zesty Herb Blend
3 tablespoons dried basil
3 tablespoons dried marjoram
3 tablespoons dried thyme
3 tablespoons dried tarragon
1 tablespoon dried lemon peel
1 tablespoon whole oregano
Place all items in a small jar and seal. Shake until well blended. This is great for adding to meat and vegetables.
Bouquet Garni:
Herb bouquet or bouquet garni, as the French call it, is easy to make and use. Place dried herbs into cheesecloth bags, about two and one-half inches square that can be sewn by hand or machine. Tie or sew the top shut. Place in soups and stews. 1 tsp. each of parsley, thyme, basil, celery leaves, and 1/2 tsp. each of sage, rosemary or dried lemon peel is a good blend to use.
Fines Herbes Butter
1 cup butter
2 tablespoons parsley
2 tablespoons chives
1 tablespoon tarragon
Mince herbs and mix all with room temperature butter by hand or mixer. Chill for at least 3 hours before serving. Wonderful with vegetables, eggs, fish or bread.
****************************
Of all the various types of foods and ways to preserve them — freezing or canning fruits and vegetables, pickling, curing meat, making cheese and yogurt — dehydrating herbs is the easiest place to jump in. Most herbs contain so little moisture that your job is done soon after you’ve bought or harvested them.
Drying herbs is an economically savvy food preservation strategy, too, because fresh and dried herbs and teas demand high prices at the grocery store.
Your own dried herbs will taste better than store-bought because they’ll be newer and thus more pungent. If you grow your own herbs, you can also choose the tastiest varieties.
Herb Drying Basics
When herbs are dried, they are safe from bacteria, mold and yeast, and will remain potent for at least six to 12 months. To remove moisture, all you need is air circulation. Some warmth can also help. The six methods detailed here fit the bill.
Washing herbs usually isn’t necessary if they are grown organically. Harvest herbs in mid-morning before newly developed essential oils have been burned off by the sun, but after the dew has dried. Remove old, dead, diseased or wilted leaves.
When you harvest herbs for their seeds, the seed heads should be turning brown and hardening, but not yet ready to shatter. To harvest herbs for their flowers — such as chamomile flowers or thyme spikes — snip flower buds off the plants close to the first day the buds open.
Indoor Air Drying Herbs. Tie stems in bundles and hang the herbs upside down. Use twist-ties so you can easily tighten the bundles when stems shrink as they dry. A warm, dry spot is best; avoid the kitchen. Wrap muslin, a mesh produce bag or a paper bag with several holes around the bundle, and tie it at the neck. Carol Costenbader, author of The Big Book of Preserving the Harvest, suggests making a gift this way by using a decorative hole punch and pretty ribbon.
A drying screen helps dry leaves or sprigs. Make your own from an old window screen or hardware cloth mesh stapled to scrap wood or a picture frame. Lay cheesecloth over the screen, and place herbs on the cloth. Herbs can take a few hours to several days to dry fully.
Solar Drying Herbs. This method is easy if you live in a warm, dry place. The ideal solar food-drying conditions are 100 degrees Fahrenheit and 60 percent humidity or less.
Use the sun’s heat to dry herbs, but don’t expose herbs to too much direct sunlight as this could cause them to bleach. Solar drying can be as low-tech as placing drying screens outside until your herbs are brittle (bring them in at night). You can also dry herbs under the windshield or rear window of your car on a hot day. A DIY solar food dryer with stackable drying screens, a glass top to trap radiation, an absorber plate to transmit heat and a vent for air circulation is useful, too. Find our building plans in Build a Solar Food Dehydrator.
Dehydrating Herbs With a Machine. Any tool that reliably turns out a good product and saves you time and money is worth its cost. Food dehydrators range in price from $30 to $400, with between $100 to $200 being the best choice for most of us. Quality dehydrators have handy features such as timers and adjustable temperature control. If you keep the unit stored in a convenient spot, you’ll use it more often and recoup its cost in a season or two of grocery savings.
Dehydrators have a temperature control mechanism — ideally one you can adjust — and a fan to circulate air. Round models with multiple stacking trays are the most energy-efficient. Box-type models that allow you to remove some of the trays can be handy for drying large items and can serve other purposes, such as proofing bread dough or culturing yogurt. Follow your machine’s instructions.
Oven Drying Herbs. Drying herbs in an oven sounds easy because most of us have one and know how to use it. But this is actually the most labor-intensive, and the least energy-efficient method. Herbs need to be dried at about 100 degrees, but most ovens don’t go that low. They also need air circulation, and some ovens don’t have vents. You’ll need to get an oven thermometer and experiment. Try turning the oven on warm or its lowest setting for a while, then turning it off (while leaving the light on). You can also try propping the door open slightly with a wooden spoon.
Check how long it takes for the temperature to drop to 100 degrees and how long it stays at that temperature.
Herbs are far easier than fruits and vegetables to oven-dry because they dry more quickly and are more forgiving. If you plan to learn how to use your oven for food dehydration, definitely start with herbs. Layer them on cheesecloth over a wire cooling rack to allow for air circulation all around, and place the rack in the middle of the oven when the temperature is about 100 degrees.
Microwave Drying Herbs. The microwave can successfully dry herbs, but note that food-drying experts do not recommend it for drying foods that have more moisture. It’s not as easy as air drying or using an electric dehydrator.
To dry herbs in a microwave, strip leaves off of the stems and place the leaves between layers of paper towels. Begin on high power for 1 minute, allow a 30-second rest, and then alternate between 30 seconds on high power and 30 seconds of rest. Most herbs should dry fully in 10 minutes or less.
Refrigerator Drying Herbs. Another super-simple method of drying herbs basically amounts to neglect. Simply stick them in the fridge and forget about them for a few days. This handy tip was discovered by the late herb authority Madalene Hill and her daughter, Gwen Barclay, who contributed to MOTHER EARTH NEWS 20 years ago.
By accident, they discovered that herbs left alone (out of packaging) in a cold, dry refrigerator dried beautifully crisp and also retained their color, flavor and fragrance.
They even liked this method for parsley and chives, which don’t have the best reputation for keeping great flavor in dried form. The challenge is finding enough room to let herbs sit uncovered for a few days.
If your fridge has available space, by all means, give it a try. To read Hill and Barclay’s original article, go to Dry Your Herbs in the Fridge.
Storing Home-Dried Herbs
Your herbs have finished drying when you can crumble them easily, but don’t crumble them all! Whole leaves and seeds retain oils better in storage than crumbled herbs. Still, having some pre-mixed spice blends — such as those for Italian, Mexican or barbecue dishes — can be a big timesaver. Use a mortar and pestle to grind the ingredients. Tea blends are also useful, such as a combination of peppermint and fennel to calm an upset stomach. Store dried herbs in airtight jars out of direct light and away from high heat.
Always label jars immediately with the date and contents. If you grew a particular variety, be sure to include its name so you can pinpoint your favorites over time. Check new jars for droplets of moisture or mold. Throw out anything moldy, and redry anything that created moisture in the jar.
When using dried herbs in recipes that call for fresh, keep in mind that oils in dried herbs are more concentrated. Use about half the amount of dried herbs in a recipe calling for fresh herbs, and about a quarter as much if the dried herb has been finely ground. To use herbs in teas, pour boiling water over a teaspoon to a tablespoon of the dried herb, or more to taste, and steep for 5 to 10 minutes.
— Get more drying tips in Food Drying With an Attitude by Mary T. Bell.
Choosing Herbs for Drying
The following herbs are good candidates for drying. Some herbs, although they can be dried, retain their flavor better if frozen. These include basil, borage, chives, cilantro, lemongrass, mint, parsley.
Leaves: bay, celery, chervil, dill, geranium, lemon balm, lemon verbena, lovage, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, sage, summer savory, tarragon, thyme
Seeds: anise, caraway, celery, chervil, coriander, cumin, dill, fennel, mustard
Flowers: bee balm, chamomile, chive, dill, geranium, lavender, linden, marigold, nasturtium, rose, thyme, yarrow
*******************
The Herbal Harvest Ideas
Quick & Easy Ways to Enhance Your Home & Life with Herbs...
Herbs in the kitchen --- cooking with fresh herbs!
When to add herbs to your dishes depends upon what's cooking:
In slow-cooking dishes, add fresh herbs about 15 minutes before cooking time is complete, so that the delicate flavors don't simmer away. Dried herbs may be added to long-simmering dishes at the beginning of cooking.
For uncooked dishes (ie, salad dressings, salsa, etc.), let the herbs marinate with the other ingredients for about 20 minutes, letting the flavor develop.
The Amount of herbs to use depends upon availability of fresh or dried:
A smaller amount of dried herbs is needed (compared to fresh), since the flavor is more concentrated. When using fresh herbs, a handy guide is to use about 3-4 times the amount (of dried herbs) called for in a recipe. We recommend you adjust according to your tastes!
Making Herbal Vinegars
Pack about 1-1/2 cups fresh herbs into sterilized jars, bruising them lightly with a spoon first, to release aid infusion of flavors. Heat 1 quart good quality white wine or cider vinegar to just below the boil. Using funnel, carefully pour vinegar into sterilized jars with herbs. Cool, seal, and let stand in cool spot for about 2 weeks. If herbs become unattractive, strain before using vinegar. Use in salad dressing, marinades, sauces, soups,
to deglaze pans. (NOTE:Will keep about 1 year, but take care to notice if there are changes in the vinegar. If so, be safe -- toss it!)
Making Herbed Oils
1) Same proportions and method as above: add herbs to 1 cup jar, adding 1/2 cup heated olive oil. Let cool, cover and refrigerate for a couple of weeks. Baste fish or vegies before grilling, dressings or marinades. (NOTE: Keep refrigerated. Great care should be taken with herbed oils, as botulism spores may develop. If changes are noted, be safe -- toss it!)
How can botulism be prevented?
2) Slow Cooker Herbal Infused Oil: Add 1 cup mild olive oil and 1/4 cup fresh rosemary/or 1/3 to 1/2 cup roughly chopped basil leaves/or thyme/or mixed herbs. Infuse oil on a "high" heat setting, uncovered for 1 1/2-2 hours. After infusing oil, be sure to turn cooker off. Strain out herbs before
using oil. (NOTE: We have had very good experience with this method, and I think it is possibly the safest way to herbally infuse oils, although produced in small quantities, for short term use.)
Making Herb Butters
Transform any ordinary bread, vegetable, pasta, egg dish, etc. into truly unique and delicious. Use in sauteeing, grilling fish or chicken. Keep a couple of varieties as staples!
Unsalted butter is generally recommended for use, because the salt in regular butter draws out the essential oils in herbs and can possibly change the flavor. Make sure the herbs you are using are completely dry before they are chopped. Will keep about 2 weeks in refrigerator; in freezer, about 3 months.
Use your favorite herbs! Here are some combination ideas: marjoram, chives & rosemary; rosemary & parsley; rosemary & lemon zest; rosemary & thyme; chives & parsely - or marjoram - or - oregano.
Using fresh herbs in your cooking many times refers to running out to pick a few herbs to use in cooking at the moment. Harvesting herbs at their peak flavor requires gathering large amounts for preserving; cutting them just before flowering; and also when plants need to be cut back, to renew growth.
Pick herbs after the dew has dried, but still early in the day (for greatest concentration of essential oils). Always wash the herbs you harvest, and dry them of fcompletely before using or preserving them. If you mulch your herb garden, you will find less washing off of garden soil is required, due to less spattering caused by rain or regular watering.
Younger leaves should be harvested for use in cooking, because the smaller leaves have a more delicate flavor.
Don't keep pinching back your annual herbs, which causes them to develop a bitter taste.
Harvest and use basil before it flowers, as that is when it is at its peak of best flavor. We usually "pinch" the flowers off, before they begin to bloom -- you can use the flowers in salads! Great in pasta salads!
Herb flowers are beautiful garnishes, which add the flavor of the herb to any dish you wish. They are great for salads, sprinkled on grilled foods, fresh fruits, and smooth, creamy, cool dishes. Experiment with flavors and combinations to suit your taste! Example: Sprinkle delicate thyme flowers over lemon ice.
When using herbs in cooking, consider that some are stronger than others, some milder, and adjust your usage accordingly so that no one herb overpowers a
dish. You might want to break down a list of commonly-used herbs into 3 categories...
Accent Herbs: Oregano, Rosemary, Sage, Savory, Tarragon, Thyme -- use these with care!
Blend Herbs: Basil, Chives, Lemon Balm, Parsley -- tend not to overpower dishes, and may be combined effectively with others.
'Somewhere 'in Between': Bay, Cilantro, Marjoram, Mint -- help to 'balance' out herbal combinations.
Herbal Vinegar Inspirations:
Basil, Dill, Garlic, Lemon Thyme, Mint, Shallot, Tarragon
Spiced Vinegar ~ A Variation:
Use 1/2 cup combined spices instead of herbs:
Allspice, Black Peppercorns, Chilis, Cinnamon Sticks, Cloves, bruising or lightly crushing before adding to vinegar.
Preserving the Harvest
"Fresh" is always best, but since not all herbs are available year round, preserving the flavor is the goal... the best way to preserve herbs is in oil, and freezing them in ice cube trays, to drop into your dishes. Another way is to freeze herb sprigs or stalks in a labelled plastic bag, then snip or chop amounts, as needed.
"Drying" is another way to preserve your harvest -- there are several methods to consider:
1) Placing them on a screen in a single layer, then air dry in a warm, dry place indoors (attic or garage) for 3-10 days. Traditionally, the herbs are bundled (we highly recommend using rubberbands NOT string, so the elastic bands will shrink with the drying plant material), and hung upside down in a warm, dry, dark place. We also recommend with those herbs about to flower, that a paper bag be placed over the herb bundle before hanging it upside down, to catch any seeds ~or~
2) Put the leaves into an oven set @104-degrees for a few hours ~or~
3) Use a food dehydrator, carefully following manufacturers instructions ~or~
4) In the microwave, preparing them first, as described above, and removing leaves from the stems, measuring 2 cups of foliage, spreading evenly on a double thickness of paper towel. Microwave for 4-6 minutes, stirring several times during the drying process. (NOTE: it has been said that essential oils are damaged in this process, which may affect taste. Our experience has been if done properly, taste is still quite good.)
When herbs are fully dried, they will be brittle. Keep the leaves as whole as possible, to preserve the flavor. Do not crush or crumble them before use. Store in airtight containers in a cool, dry place.
How to Buy Fresh Herbs ~ If You Must...
Look for herbs that look freshest and have the true "herb" scent, with little or no discolorations, ragged edges or apparently diseased parts. If purchased by the bunch, wash and store them in a plastic bag, or a glass of water with a plastic bag placed over them. If bought in a plastic package, store them as is in the refrigerator, washing just before using them.
Be adventurous! Try different combinations of herbs & spices to suit your taste and dish -- adjust accordingly, using your imagination and harvest!
Experiment, have fun, and use organically grown herbs...
Most of all -- ENJOY!
The Herbal Harvest Ideas
Quick & Easy Ways to Enhance Your Home & Life with Herbs...
Herbs in the kitchen --- cooking with fresh herbs!
When to add herbs to your dishes depends upon what's cooking:
In slow-cooking dishes, add fresh herbs about 15 minutes before cooking time is complete, so that the delicate flavors don't simmer away. Dried herbs may be added to long-simmering dishes at the beginning of cooking.
For uncooked dishes (ie, salad dressings, salsa, etc.), let the herbs marinate with the other ingredients for about 20 minutes, letting the flavor develop.
The Amount of herbs to use depends upon availability of fresh or dried:
A smaller amount of dried herbs is needed (compared to fresh), since the flavor is more concentrated. When using fresh herbs, a handy guide is to use about 3-4 times the amount (of dried herbs) called for in a recipe. We recommend you adjust according to your tastes!
Making Herbal Vinegars
Pack about 1-1/2 cups fresh herbs into sterilized jars, bruising them lightly with a spoon first, to release aid infusion of flavors. Heat 1 quart good quality white wine or cider vinegar to just below the boil. Using funnel, carefully pour vinegar into sterilized jars with herbs. Cool, seal, and let stand in cool spot for about 2 weeks. If herbs become unattractive, strain before using vinegar. Use in salad dressing, marinades, sauces, soups,
to deglaze pans. (NOTE:Will keep about 1 year, but take care to notice if there are changes in the vinegar. If so, be safe -- toss it!)
Making Herbed Oils
1) Same proportions and method as above: add herbs to 1 cup jar, adding 1/2 cup heated olive oil. Let cool, cover and refrigerate for a couple of weeks. Baste fish or vegies before grilling, dressings or marinades. (NOTE: Keep refrigerated. Great care should be taken with herbed oils, as botulism spores may develop. If changes are noted, be safe -- toss it!)
How can botulism be prevented?
2) Slow Cooker Herbal Infused Oil: Add 1 cup mild olive oil and 1/4 cup fresh rosemary/or 1/3 to 1/2 cup roughly chopped basil leaves/or thyme/or mixed herbs. Infuse oil on a "high" heat setting, uncovered for 1 1/2-2 hours. After infusing oil, be sure to turn cooker off. Strain out herbs before
using oil. (NOTE: We have had very good experience with this method, and I think it is possibly the safest way to herbally infuse oils, although produced in small quantities, for short term use.)
Making Herb Butters
Transform any ordinary bread, vegetable, pasta, egg dish, etc. into truly unique and delicious. Use in sauteeing, grilling fish or chicken. Keep a couple of varieties as staples!
Unsalted butter is generally recommended for use, because the salt in regular butter draws out the essential oils in herbs and can possibly change the flavor. Make sure the herbs you are using are completely dry before they are chopped. Will keep about 2 weeks in refrigerator; in freezer, about 3 months.
Use your favorite herbs! Here are some combination ideas: marjoram, chives & rosemary; rosemary & parsley; rosemary & lemon zest; rosemary & thyme; chives & parsely - or marjoram - or - oregano.
Using fresh herbs in your cooking many times refers to running out to pick a few herbs to use in cooking at the moment. Harvesting herbs at their peak flavor requires gathering large amounts for preserving; cutting them just before flowering; and also when plants need to be cut back, to renew growth.
Pick herbs after the dew has dried, but still early in the day (for greatest concentration of essential oils). Always wash the herbs you harvest, and dry them of fcompletely before using or preserving them. If you mulch your herb garden, you will find less washing off of garden soil is required, due to less spattering caused by rain or regular watering.
Younger leaves should be harvested for use in cooking, because the smaller leaves have a more delicate flavor.
Don't keep pinching back your annual herbs, which causes them to develop a bitter taste.
Harvest and use basil before it flowers, as that is when it is at its peak of best flavor. We usually "pinch" the flowers off, before they begin to bloom -- you can use the flowers in salads! Great in pasta salads!
Herb flowers are beautiful garnishes, which add the flavor of the herb to any dish you wish. They are great for salads, sprinkled on grilled foods, fresh fruits, and smooth, creamy, cool dishes. Experiment with flavors and combinations to suit your taste! Example: Sprinkle delicate thyme flowers over lemon ice.
When using herbs in cooking, consider that some are stronger than others, some milder, and adjust your usage accordingly so that no one herb overpowers a
dish. You might want to break down a list of commonly-used herbs into 3 categories...
Accent Herbs: Oregano, Rosemary, Sage, Savory, Tarragon, Thyme -- use these with care!
Blend Herbs: Basil, Chives, Lemon Balm, Parsley -- tend not to overpower dishes, and may be combined effectively with others.
'Somewhere 'in Between': Bay, Cilantro, Marjoram, Mint -- help to 'balance' out herbal combinations.
Herbal Vinegar Inspirations:
Basil, Dill, Garlic, Lemon Thyme, Mint, Shallot, Tarragon
Spiced Vinegar ~ A Variation:
Use 1/2 cup combined spices instead of herbs:
Allspice, Black Peppercorns, Chilis, Cinnamon Sticks, Cloves, bruising or lightly crushing before adding to vinegar.
Preserving the Harvest
"Fresh" is always best, but since not all herbs are available year round, preserving the flavor is the goal... the best way to preserve herbs is in oil, and freezing them in ice cube trays, to drop into your dishes. Another way is to freeze herb sprigs or stalks in a labelled plastic bag, then snip or chop amounts, as needed.
"Drying" is another way to preserve your harvest -- there are several methods to consider:
1) Placing them on a screen in a single layer, then air dry in a warm, dry place indoors (attic or garage) for 3-10 days. Traditionally, the herbs are bundled (we highly recommend using rubberbands NOT string, so the elastic bands will shrink with the drying plant material), and hung upside down in a warm, dry, dark place. We also recommend with those herbs about to flower, that a paper bag be placed over the herb bundle before hanging it upside down, to catch any seeds ~or~
2) Put the leaves into an oven set @104-degrees for a few hours ~or~
3) Use a food dehydrator, carefully following manufacturers instructions ~or~
4) In the microwave, preparing them first, as described above, and removing leaves from the stems, measuring 2 cups of foliage, spreading evenly on a double thickness of paper towel. Microwave for 4-6 minutes, stirring several times during the drying process. (NOTE: it has been said that essential oils are damaged in this process, which may affect taste. Our experience has been if done properly, taste is still quite good.)
When herbs are fully dried, they will be brittle. Keep the leaves as whole as possible, to preserve the flavor. Do not crush or crumble them before use. Store in airtight containers in a cool, dry place.
How to Buy Fresh Herbs ~ If You Must...
Look for herbs that look freshest and have the true "herb" scent, with little or no discolorations, ragged edges or apparently diseased parts. If purchased by the bunch, wash and store them in a plastic bag, or a glass of water with a plastic bag placed over them. If bought in a plastic package, store them as is in the refrigerator, washing just before using them.
Be adventurous! Try different combinations of herbs & spices to suit your taste and dish -- adjust accordingly, using your imagination and harvest!
Experiment, have fun, and use organically grown herbs...
Most of all -- ENJOY!
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